WBraun
climber
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Excellent route and beautiful location.
Loved this route and give it the full 5 stars.
And one should know that in the mountains one should expect danger at every step and movement like loose rock, dirt and changing weather.
This perfectly normal.
The mountain environment is not sterile like a gym ......
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jwagoner
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed this route on 8/28. From sunrise until about 3 p.m., there was rockfall coming down the gully between Keeler and Day about every 10 minutes. Mostly small stuff, but every once in a while something big would come down. Around 2 p.m. a block the size of a small car went crashing into the moraine.
Maybe a particularly unstable day, but I wouldn't want to be anywhere near the start of this route. We climbed an approach pitch described by Dow Williams on summit post. You basically climb up low angle shallow corners near the center of the face, then move left to a ledge near the bottom of the first pitch as given by supertopo. Don't start in the large right facing corner, but a bit left of that on terrain with smaller, broken corners. Dow WIlliams called this 5.4, we found it to be a bit harder but still very easy (maybe 5.7 or 5.8) and protectable. We probably just took a different line. This start dodges most of the snowfield and keeps you away from the gully and any rockfall. Something could still reach you over there, but it would have to be particularly big and nasty.
Amazing route!
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ninjah
Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
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Did the route in 12 hours, 8/2/11, and it was amazeing! stout and phyical, there was big rains on the route two days prior and the 2nd pitch lost a good flake jug as my partner seconded that very dirty roof pitch!
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guycan
Trad climber
flagstaff
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I'd wanted this route/peak for a long time, and was very pleased to finally make it happen.
ck out the video segment on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zFT1g_VSQ8
we climbed it as a party of three, simul climbing easier pitches and simul belaying followers on the more difficult ones. overall, I found it easier than I'd expected; a #4 Camalot is useful but not absolutely necessary- I led the crux pitch without using it or the #5 friend we carried.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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The route is good , but has a lot of loose rock and can be dangerous if other party climbing above you.
p4 - 1st wide-right side in
p8 second wide - left side in
p9 - scariest on the route-Upper part of this pitch is rotten crack ~5.8/5.7 where holds can brock and protection is bad.
Highly recomended to fix the rope over the snow field the night before the climbing
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fairweather
Mountain climber
Roseville, CA
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I agree. I climbed this route a couple years ago, and thought it was great. The OW climbing was way overblown, and the rock quality was generally very good. Given the position of the climb, and the overall quality, I think it is a classic.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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This route was awesome. I would recomend it to anyone up for a classic- the rock was really not as bad as everyone pisses about. A # 4 covers the bolt ladder be brought and used a #5 on mannnyyy pitches-I would recomend it. It was a long day and pretty physical but It was not the horror I was anticipating. The crux is not the strait sided ow you may have imagined and the stemming and rock texture make for generally solid squeezing- medium pieces and fixed gear pro the crux OW- but many Ows await but when you get into them they are more fun than strenious. Don't avoid this route because of the ow you might be plesently suprised. If you did the Red Dihedral easy than your likely ready-but you probably want to do some sustained alpine crack route prior fer body endurance checks. Need more info write me. If you want an added push go car to car.
Crochie
Now where could one find a topo to Day Needle??
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Trip report with photos here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=403582
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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There is a great topo and photo of the nearby Crimson Wall on Keeler Needle:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=104036&f=35&b=0
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The offwidth crux is different. a little less secure but not as grunty.
Overall, the main difference between the two is magnitude. keeler is a few hundred feet taller. the approach is bigger. you are climbing at a higher elevation. The rock is not as good so you are a little more spooked.
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crackedribs
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Could anyone provide some feed back in how much more difficult this route is then the Southwest face of Mt. Conness?
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The route as seen from the approach.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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