chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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My first 10c. Super well-protected, and my intro to crack climbing on the West Coast. A good climb to ease into the grade IMO. Stays in the shade in the morning. A complete delight that I will fondly remember. (I don't necessarily recommend warming up on it for West Crack, but what does one do when all the other climbs are busy?)
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Sascha
climber
Oakland, CA
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First pitch is phenomenal and favors the smaller fingers. You can lower the leader on a 60m rope if you're tied in and ready to climb (have your shoes within reach!).
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dbs
climber
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The reason why it was 12a in Reids book and now much easier is because they changed the way the route was originally done. The second pitch is not an R rating it was adequately protected with a knifeblade and some small stoppers. It would appear that people just aren't comfortable climbing with this type of gear anymore so they have to bolt it or go a different direction. They should call the new Bombs Over Tokyo something like I Bombed on Bombs. Just kidding it probably is a mighty proud line.
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gregs
Trad climber
cotati,ca
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Did the first pitch. Very good route. Need multiple .3 inch cams to protect the upper section of the pitch. 60 foot rope reaches to rap, barely.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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indeed, the description on this page is fairly confusing. The topo probably makes it clearer.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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The 10c is only the first pitch.
This is a very good route. Slightly awkward ~5.9 down low and then you get into the beautiful 10c crack.
If I remember correctly, the anchors are a bit out of view.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
Where the wind blows strange
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bah
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
Where the wind blows strange
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how ia it that this route is 12a in the Reid book and 10c in this book/online topo store.
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
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