Central Pillar, Watchman Direct, The Watchman IV/V 5.11 C1

Zion National Park, Utah, USA

Currently 0.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 1 day

Approach time: 1-1.5 hours

Descent time: 1.5 hours

Number of pitches: 14

Height of route: 1500' route, 2700' total

Overview

FA: Eric Draper and Bryan Bird 09/20-22/1999 FFA: Eric Draper, Bryan Bird up to The Cleavage spring/2004 III/IV 5.11

The original line climbed Pie for Dinner to the top of the square pillar 400 feet up the face. Two more pitches up a bushy gully and then a ramp to the right are required to reach the start of the central pillar or buttress that gives the route its name. On an attempt to free climb the route Eric and I decided to skip the brutal offwidth of the lower pillar and tried a line 50 feet to the right. We found this crack to be more enjoyable and a better way to go. The first two pitches follow a crack that begins as a short squeeze chimney followed by a hand and finger crack. An unknown party climbed these opening two pitches previously. Pitch 3 is shared with Uklaw and Aktack. We rejoined the original line and Pie for Dinner at the top of the square pillar. At the top of the central pillar is a notch-like formation we called The Cleavage. Bolted rap stations are equipped to this point. This is our high point of the free variation of this route at the time of this writing. Beyond The Cleavage the route goes at 5.10 C1.

Rack: 2 ea to 4”, 1 ea 5”, one or two extra 1.75”-3.5” useful, nuts, slings, 2 60m ropes

Descent: rap the route from The Cleavage down. Beyond The Cleavage descend the South Ridge.

Climber Beta on Central Pillar, Watchman Direct