Equinox, Leaning Wall IV 5.10

Zion National Park, Utah, USA

Currently 0.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 1 day

Approach time: 5 minutes

Descent time: 2-3 hours

Number of pitches: 10

Height of route: 1000’ route, 1200’ total

Overview

FA: Ron Olevsky and Mike Strassman, 3/21/84. FFA: Dave Jones and George Allen, 5/84.

Equinox gets mixed reviews. Most people have a good time on this one, but others don’t enjoy the climbing much at all. Ascents are fairly common, which helps to keep this one slightly cleaner than some of the other longer 5.10 routes in the canyon. Be a confident 5.10 leader to tackle this one as there are a few big run-outs. To find the start of the route continue left (up-canyon) along the base of the wall past Pitch 1 of Space Shot, passing below a long wide crack just right of a right-facing corner. The offwidth offers a more direct but much harder start to Equinox. Pitch 1 begins about 150 feet left of the previously mentioned offwidth in a low angle, vegetated area. A fixed pin next to a long chimney marks the start of Pitch 2. Equinox is a worthy climb; be heads up for the run-outs on the second and sixth/crux pitch. As of press time the fixed gear protecting the face climbing off the ledge on Pitch 6 is a tiny hex slung with cord, pounded into a bottomed-out pin scar. Replacing this piece with a wired hex would make the moves much less scary for everyone. An attempt to fix an angle in the scar in 2001 was unsuccessful. The crack is too shallow.

Rack: 2 ea .5-4.5”, 1 ea 5.5”, nuts, 2 ropes.

Climber Beta on Equinox