Voodoo Rooves, Cathedral Mountain III 5.10

Zion National Park, Utah, USA

Currently 0.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 3-4 hours

Approach time: 15-25 minutes

Descent time: 45 minutes

Number of pitches: 5

Height of route: 500'

Overview

FA: Randy Cerf and Wesley Krause 04/77.

Expect wild climbing with large pro on this one. Climb a continuous natural weakness for 500 feet. Look for the large roof half way up to locate the route. The first pitch has several variations; the farthest left option is the most straight forward. The voodoo ends on the big ledge with tall pine trees. This is an old-school route with old-school anchors and is in serious need of an anchor replacement. It appears that most of the anchor bolts were added subsequent to the first ascent. The first ascent team climbed to the higher tree-covered ledge and walked south to descend a gully. It’s possible to rappel the route with two 60m ropes but the anchors are scary! There is a single-pitch route just right of Voodoo Rooves called Angels Finger. However, not enough information was known at press time to be included.

Rack: see topo.

Descent: the first ascent team climbed to the second large vegetated ledge area and walked south to a gully and descended by down climbing and doing two 150-foot rappels. It’s also possible to rappel the route. Two 60m ropes work best and allow you to skip the worst anchors of the bunch (see topo).

Climber Beta on Voodoo Rooves