Ball and Chain, Angels Landing V 5.12d A0 |
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Zion National Park, Utah, USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 1 day
Approach time: 30 minutes Descent time: 45 minutes Number of pitches: 9 Height of route: 1400’ on routes, 1500’ total Overview
FA: Ron Olevsky, 1981Prodigal Sun is one the most continuously steep routes in this book. The route is mostly moderate aid but there are a few tricky placements. It is usually done in two days by fixing the first three pitches on day 1 and blasting to the top on day 2. The cliff is closed February 1st to July 31st most years for Peregrine nesting. Check with the visitors center to make sure. Please do not remove any pitons—they are fixed to prevent crack damage. The route is northeast facing and therefore usually in the shade after 11 a.m. from August to March. Late fall and winter can be frigid and having to cross the cold river on the approach only adds to the misery. The best time to climb the route is in September and October, when all day shade is comfortable. The entire route can be rappelled with two ropes. Climber Beta on Ball and Chain
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 Photo: Eric Draper
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