Homeworld, Parkline Slab 5.10c

   
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1 hour
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 750'
Overview
Pro: .33”-4.5” one each, 12 QD’s Can be done with one 60m rope. One of the warmest long routes in the Valley, making it a great choice in winter. Can be climbed two hours after a rainstorm. P1: 80’, 4 bolts, 10c. Above second crack is a horizontal crack that takes a 2.5” pro. Then two more bolts, with a 10c crux between bolt 3 and 4, gets very near vertical to a bolt anchor. P2: 70’, easy 5.6 crack (fingers), really mellow bolt anchor by a pine tree on a really large ledge that veers right. P3: 90’, traverse right via 3rd class ledges with a 5.7 distinct cross as the line jogs, 15 feet of funky moves, finger-sized pro, then back to walking to big giant ledge with more pine trees up right to a two-bolt anchor. P4: 90’, 7 bolts, go past one bolt to a tight hands crack for three body lengths and then it veers up and left on 5.9 really long and amazing face climbing. Three-bolt anchor. P4 variation: 5.8 right-hand variation gets wet; a juggy face climb/knobs with bomber finger crack pro. Going the left way is more fun and more classy. P5: 90’, 3 bolts, classic Valley face to left- facing corner. This “ear” that is placed on the wall looks like the Bootflake. It gets wide, 2-4”. From here, OW or pimp juggy layback. “Grab the damn thing and go.” Otherwise you need a 6-7” piece to protect it safely. It’s less physical to layback this section. P6: 60’, 6 bolts. Belay on top of ear. Three bolts worth of sustained 10c (classy) to a horizontal dyke, easier ground, traverse right, clip another bolt on the dyke and then head straight up the anchor. P7: 60’, 3 bolts. Climb 5.10 past the bolt, then you get into purple and blue TCU and then 10c via laybacks and underclings, 1-2 Camalots, then make your way right past three bolts to the anchor. P8: 100’, 7 bolts. Fully bolted pitch, very sustained. A couple bolts heading left via the weakness with serious 5.10, then jog right, climbing through the headwall, and up to a two-bolt anchor. P9: 100’, 3 bolts. Clip two bolts of 5.5 to the top. Should by all rights become a popular Valley route. It has a friendlier feel. A great route for the 10c climber – full value. You can go up and down with a single 60m. The route on the left you cannot do with one rope; you must complete and finish Homeworld to head down.
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FA: Sean Jones and Robi Borchard

You can go up and down with a single 60m. The route on the left you cannot do with one rope; you must complete and finish Homeworld to head down.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Parkline Slab - Homeworld 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris Van Leuven
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