Dangling Chads Direct, Parkline Slab 5.11a

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Currently 4.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 1 hour

Approach time: 15 minutes

Descent time: 30 minutes

Number of pitches: 5

Height of route: 195'

Overview

Though this route is mixed, the trad section at the start is quite straightforward and only 5.7. Pro from 3/8-3/4” single set. Crux comes after bolt 5; clipping bolt 6 is quite tricky. Though it doesn’t appear this way while leading, it is strongly suggested to
use a long draw on bolt 5, otherwise you’ll experience heinous rope-drag when nearing the anchors. This route will keep you on your toes, literally. Fantastic edges and foot- chips throughout. This mondo pitch feels like three routes in one. Dangling Chad’s is a five-pitch route. “I think the second pitch is the best at P-Line,” states pioneer Jeff Scheuerell.
Two hundred yards left of Dangling Chad’s Direct are two additional routes, a fine 5.12a bolted arête and a long 5.8 single-pitch hand crack. The climbers’ trail cuts across a bit of exposed 4th class, but just for three or four moves.

Climber Beta on Dangling Chads Direct