Loco Yokel, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.10d |
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 30-40 minutes Descent time: 1.5 hours Number of pitches: 4 Height of route: 520' Overview
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Jonathan duSaint, September 2007.Burly, technical dihedral to a long pumpy lieback. Steep, powerful, and tenuous climbing up the initial dihedral is tightly protected with bolts and gear, and then a lieback with thin gear leads to a flake lieback pumpfest with bolts once the gear runs out. If lowering from the first pitch, it’s a couple feet longer than half a 60m rope. If continuing, the belay is basically a hanging belay and a butt-bag is nice. The second pitch starts with thin moves that ease quickly to a cool, knobby, airy arête that is the left arête of the entire mile-long face of Medlicott. You can just barely rap with a single 60m rope – tie knots in the ends. Climber Beta on Loco Yokel
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 Loco Yokel is just left of route E Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Medlicott Dome, Left
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