Silicone Corner, Doda Dome 5.7 R

Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

Currently 2.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 3-4 hours

Approach time: 30-40 minutes

Descent time: 20-30 minutes

Number of pitches: 5

Height of route: 400'

Overview

FA: Grant Hiskes, Pat Ranstrom, Greg Rustler, August 1982

An outstanding, burly, old-school route, Silicone Corner will test your hand jamming, stemming, liebacking, and low-angle chimney/flare technique. Tape gloves are strongly recommended, as there is a lot of wide hands jamming with very sharp, rough rock.
The initial section of the main corner is cruxy and poorly protected until a thin hands crack is reached about 30 feet up. A thin flared crack about 15 feet up can be protected only with an offset finger-sized cam (eg. green/yellow offset Alien). Use slings to reduce rope drag, which can be significant on this long pitch.
The approach pitches are wandering, with a distinct steep 5.7 crux just before reaching the huge ledge at the base of the corner. An intermediate belay just above this section is recommended, and then the belay can be moved to below the corner. The base of the corner has no good pro, but a belay can be set below the corner near the lower end of the down-sloping ledge.

Climber Beta on Silicone Corner