Pirates, Starlight Peak IV 5.10b

    
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 8-10 hours
Approach time: 4 hours
Descent time: 5 hours
Number of pitches: 10
Height of route: 1200'
Overview
There are better rock routes out there, but this climb has it all: cross the glacier bergshrund to get to 10 pitches of rock and then traverse the ridge and down climb/rappell a snow gully to descend. Pirates has a glaciated high peak feel rare on most High Sierra climbs. The rock climbing involves a bit of everything from loose 5.8R to splitter cracks to the best 5.4 pitch ever to a summit pinnacle. FA: Ryan Crochiere, Ken Kenaga.
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Climber Beta on Pirates
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 10, 2008
Starlight Peak - Pirates IV 5.10b - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Red line + the climb. Yellow line is the descent.
Photo: Ryan Crochiere
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