Goldfinger, The Stump IV, 5.11a

Alaska, USA

Currently 5.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 5-10 hours

Approach time: 20 minutes from Gorge

Descent time: 2-3 hours

Number of pitches: 12

Height of route: 1,800'

Overview

This “small” 1,800 foot formation is often overlooked for the bigger peaks in the Ruth. The perfectly triangular face tends to blend in with the great walls of the Mooses Tooth and the Eye Tooth. It was named in honor of Mugs Stump after his tragic death in 1992. The Stump is technically part of the Wisdom Tooth formation, although all of its routes logically end on The Stump’s lower summit point. The Wisdom Tooth has its own great south wall to the right of The Stump. The granite on these walls has a distinctively red color in places and is some of the best rock in the Ruth Gorge.

The south face is defined by two major dihedral systems that appear to converge perfectly at the summit. The left one holds one of the finest moderate rock climbs in the Gorge. This sustained moderate route on excellent rock sports good protection, easy access, and a straightforward descent.

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