West Ridge, The Mooses Tooth V, 80-deg ice to main summit |
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Alaska, USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 1-4 days
Approach time: 2-3 hours Descent time: 6-16 hours Number of pitches: N/A Height of route: 5,200' to main summit Overview
Creating the long and sharp spine of the Mooses Tooth massif, the West Ridge is one of the most significant climbs out of the Ruth Glacier. This complex and somewhat precarious ridge was a ground-breaking first ascent to one of the hardest-to-attain summits in all of Alaska. The climb became even more well-known by being included in Steck and Roper’s Fifty Classic Climbs, but it has fallen out of favor in recent years, due to the wild popularity of the south side routes. It is still a great climb up one of the most famous peaks in North America.Few people that climb the West Ridge actually climb to the Main (east) Summit. Most parties are content with just the lower West Summit. The nature and seriousness of the climb certainly changes once you venture past this point. Make no mistake; the West Ridge is not the easiest route to the true summit. That would be Ham and Eggs. A moderate snow and ice climb to the West Summit becomes a difficult and dangerous ridge traverse, replete with steep ice climbing, dangerous cornices, and a high commitment factor. Photos
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 An overview of the line. Photo: Joe Puryear
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