West Pillar, The Eye Tooth V, 5.10c

Alaska, USA

Currently 5.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 10-20 hours

Approach time: 1-2 hours from Gorge

Descent time: 5-10 hours

Number of pitches: 23

Height of route: 2,900'

Overview

The Eye Tooth (9,000’) is a southern sub-peak of the greater Mooses Tooth massif. Its tiny pointed summit caps one of the largest and steepest west facing walls on the east side of the Ruth Gorge. The West Pillar of the Eye Tooth is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in Alaska. This El Capitan-sized free climb scales an incredibly aesthetic buttress in the heart of the Ruth Gorge’s Tooth peaks. While the route has an occasional loose block, the rock is overall very sound, well featured, and highly textured. On the climb, one gets the feeling of being “really out there” as a sea of granite sweeps up above and below you.

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