Littlebitofjuice
Trad climber
Kelseyville, CA
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Black Forest ACEC (Area of Critical Environmental Concern) is open to Bouldering near the bottom (Soda Bay Road). The cliffs above the forest are closed to any climbing. This is a Raptor nesting area. Just spoke to the Ukiah BLM, who manages the area, and they gave me this latest Beta. Not the best Bouldering, but if you are in the area it is certainly worth a look!
Lots of good wine in the area and my favorite after exploring the few problems available, is Kelsey Creek Brewery in Kelseyville. Recommend you get a good burrito at John's Market then taking it over to the Brewery (they allow food) ~ makes for good "recovery".
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Several months ago a Clear Lake SP ranger told me that I could climb, but not place bolts when I was bouldering at the SP entrance. Stuff at SP entrance isn't that good at all.
Re-cleaned and climbed at Black Forest on Saturday. Forgot how fun and good that rock it. It can be sharp. Some boulders are tougher than they look.
Totally worthy for a few hours of bouldering. More potential out there too.
I made sure to pick up any trash I found, removed my chalk and tried not to trample vegetation. Respect this nice and quiet area.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Chris, glad to hear you had a better experience with rangers than I did. Have you ever checked out the tall cliffs above Black Forest? One of the rangers gave me directions and permission to walk through his property to access the cliffs. He said climbers had been up there before, but I wonder if they were real climbers or just scramblers. It looks like it could be chossy, but who knows? There might be something worthwhile up there. I'd be happy to join you on an excursion up there if you're interested. By the way I'm glad to see all those Black Forest boulder problems in your guidebook, I often boulder there but you found some problems I haven't seen yet.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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i met a ranger when i was bouldering in campsite 110 and he said it was OK but i could not park in the site itself unless i was camping there as stated in the book. the boulders next to the entrance would also be in question since they are so visible from the ranger station/entrance booth - - this would really suck if the ranger i talked to was not in charge or just did not know all the rules. speaking of rules isnt climbing-bouldering-scrambling legal in all state parks?? - just the placement of fixed protection is usually regulated or restricted. either way - the main area is the Black Forest and it is legit and not far from the park so as long as it stays cool then at least this (if it does become a problem) will not ruin the entire area. lets hope it was a fluke and you just caught the wrong ranger on the wrong day. {fingers crossed}
*Clear Lake State Park has only a few boulders and is barely worth a stop unless you are already bouldering at the Black Forest and want to do a few more problems and/or need a campground - the main area at Clear Lake is the Black Forest and even it is barely worth a stop unless you are in the Clear Lake area. Please be extra carfeul and respectful of all rules and regulations when at both of these areas.
thanks for the feedback Floyd - and good job being hot on my tail of new rock in the area - damn i might have only got to those first because of the ranger. we need to team up and talk rocks soon!
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Last year I stumbled across the boulders at campsite 110 in Clear Lake State Park, but before climbing them I first checked with the park rangers at the entrance. They told me climbing in the park was illegal and anybody caught would be cited. It certainly scared me away. Anybody have a better experience experience with the rangers?
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Andrew Zaslove does The Black Forest Arete.Photo: Chris Summit
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