drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sadly a log jam has taken out the sit start to one of the orignal classics at The Bar nicknamed "Gaston Problem" V6. If I was a local I would consider taking it out. I did when I did what I thought might be the fa about 10 yrs ago but this time it is a lot worse.
There are some new problems upstream that look great for now though and potential for some more spread out around the area. And with summer heat here now the swimming holes and afternoon shade make these boulders a lot more appealing :)
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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ive seen some limestone on the ridge across from the quarry from near mammoth bar but never hiked to it. sounds interesting. i do know of the routes on the cliff near "mammoth bar / murderers bar" (ive heard it called both or there is another seperate bar nearby maybe?? wud evr) there is a 1 bolt anchor on top of that cliff and 2 5.11ish sport routes. they are very technical vertical face climbing good fun.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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I was out there today looking for "new" rock. Ran across a large limestone cliff along the mammoth bar-confluence trail. About a half a mile down the trail from the entrance road to mammoth bar is a small limestone cliff with a couple boulder problems on the right(uphill) The rock looks oxidized like it has little coral formations on it. Downhill from this cliff on the left is a fairly large 60-80' limestone cliff that looks like it's been hydraulic mined? The cliff has a few small caves in it that go back further than i wanted to go. I found a 1-bolt anchor on top and some other development. Anybody know where I'm talking about? Its located across the river from the quarry.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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awesome beta killer k! i will let you know if/when im coming out that way!
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Chris,
I actually started on the left side of the main face and traversed right into the V3 Handlebar finish. It is also possible to traverse further right into the V5 direct finish. You can also traverse even further right into Flowmaster V6 which would finish on the topout for the Gaston Problem on the far right. (havent sent those two variations yet)
There has also been some depvelopment on the two big boulders on the hillside by Ryan Wells and Justin Cory I believe. There is a 25' dead vertical V6 highball called Shogun Direct that you can't miss on the right boulder (very proud). On the left boulder is a short overhanging arete problem named Wells Done V4. There seems to be more potential in the same area where these two problems are however some of the rock is just strait shale choss and there is a ton of poison oak.
I would totally be stoked to go climb and check out a new area with you. Anytime is good for me. Sac needs more local rock!!
-Kelley
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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so you started on the gaston problem and then traversed left along the lip up into the end of handlebar? sounds fun. i did the opposite, i traversed from handlebar sit to the right along the lip into the top of the gaston problem for a v5/6ish. your line may be another new link up/variation!? i need to get back there sometime. let me know if you're going out for a good day and would like some company. and i know of another untapped area very nearby that really needs some lovin.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Just sent a variation link-up on the Handlebar Boulder linking problem #6 into the normal handlebar problem(#8)by traversing around the lip of the bulge to the right. I scrubbed a good amount of moss off the key holds so it may be a FA? In any case I have dubbed it Endo V4.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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nice KillerK! glad to hear someones out there doin some of the "new" stuff. I have not been to the bar for a few years so i cant be sure about the fig tree. i did the bar traverse along time ago and i dont remember any tree issues. the V2 on the left side of the handlebar boulder was pretty solid rock i thought so id be surprised if somethng broke. maybe the confusion is that compared to the handlebar it is maybe more like v3 and handlebar stand is the V2 (switch ratings maybe?) the heelhook seans doing i believe he flips to a toe stand similar to the way i do it and its pretty ez. the sit makes it V3/4ish and the direct V4/5 variation i barely remember but i know it goes up the prow more to the right (left of gaston problem) and it finishes the same as the dyno variation. hope that helps :)
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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A Few Questions:
Is the big Fig tree in the way of The Bar Traverse V3?
Did something break off of The Handlebar Boulder #6 V2?
I sent The Handlebar V3 by using a knee and an elbow instead of a heel hook. Do you think that it is easier that way? The heel hook seems way difficult that I see Sean Brady doing in the pic. Maybe a V4 variation?
I think it is worthwhile to note that going around Bar Rock to the right is way easier when approaching from uphill despite the cairns. Plus you get to check out two more sick boulders off the bike trail. Also 2 pads and a good spotter would be very useful here, broken ankle city! Oh and its $10 bucks to park!!!!!!!!!!! Golden poppy pass useful!
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Sean Brady on Handle Bar (V4).Photo: Chris Summit
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