Trip Report
A quick trip to the Valley for some crack.
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Sunday January 17, 2010 2:31pm
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Who loves crack? I do! So does Fred Glover, Mike Rael and James. We decided it was high time to hit Yosemite. Hoping for some good weather, we drove across the state, making sure to hit every traffic jam we could on the way. On the list for the weekend; Generator Crack for some wide training, New Diversions Cliff, and then Reeds Pinnacle on sunday.
What a weekend.
karodrinker
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About the Author
Kalen Glenn is a trad climber, skateboarder, surfer and father from San Jose, CA. |
Comments
rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 17, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
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Good stuff !
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 17, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
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attempted?
I don't think I'll ever do that thing. skeers me.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Jan 17, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
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Dang! That Valley is so fricken cool, eh?
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jan 17, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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Yep, both James and Fred attempted the tunnel. Both turned back. Sure looked tiny in there! A climber that was at reeds said his partner got stuck in there. A skinny kid climbed under the stuck climber and assisted with a shoulderstand. Pretty scary place. I'm glad our route went up the chimney. Rather climb a 5.10 offwidth than that creepy tunnel.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 17, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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Excellent! Beat's curled up watching movies....
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jan 17, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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Nice pull in the winter! PS, did the tunnel and found it fun and a good finish to an adventure
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jan 18, 2010 - 03:56am PT
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msiddens, did you go high or low through the tunnel. They tried both ways, I think the high road was the way to go? What a crag, that whole exfoliating flake that makes up reeds pinnacle is hollow all the way through. Crazy echo chamber
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 18, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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Yo
Kalen
great trip report
James is James Nolting.
Definitely going to finish the Reed's tunnel next trip. James and I were weighing the probability of both of us getting through the tunnel before dark and decided to bail. James had found the way, he went high at the narrows and then back down further on. Looked like there was no more pro from his cam that fell out at 1/2 distance and the end. So we agreed he should turn around and we'll do it next time for sure.
Definitely do-able with an earlier start.
The first pitch and the tunnel were James' 3rd and 4th leads ever. He's learning fast.
James top roped the right side up to the offwidth while you and Mike were rapping. Thanks for leaving the rope up for us.
That approach from the Reed's turnout definitely needs some work. I'm not in favor of altering the landscape but the hazard to cars from falling rock really needs mitigating.
We accidentally knocked off a REALLY big boulder that would've done serious damage to a car. Kalen and James got it out of the road pronto. Good thing there was very little traffic that evening.
Someone with a lot more experience with the hike up should chime in on the best path and the best way to mark it. The SuperTopo directions are inadequate.
Dinner at Priest Station at top of Priest Grade was a fine finish. Conrad Anker's sister Denise, brother Steve, their Mom and one or two employees make it all happen. Great food with good variety. And stay away from Mom's pies and pastries if you expect to maintain your weight ;) Very nice folks, excellent view. Open till 8PM every night.
Fred
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Zander
climber
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Jan 18, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Nice!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 18, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
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I went across, up, than down, was contemplating more across when I freaked out and backed out five minutes of climbing in about six seconds. Can't really say because the claustraphobia (sp) kicked an I don't remember much of the climb back out.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 19, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
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Thanks!
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 19, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
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Super!
thanks for some "cool" inspiration.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 21, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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New Diversions looks excellent. I never did that one, and now here I am stuck on the wrong continent!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
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great report! nice shots. thanks
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jan 25, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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Tunnel-through is fun... just be willing to go up & down tracking the wider spots, rather than straight across and getting stuck. Extra slings to hang your helmet and gear below your feet is mandatory.
Nice pics to carry us through the winter!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jan 25, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
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Im glad we went when we did! Weather has been relentless lately (for us anyways, I know we still have it better than most here in California). The view counter feature is great, who would have thought 700 people would want to look at my weekend pics? It's strangely rewarding...
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 27, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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Excellent adventure fellas. Good on ya.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 27, 2010 - 04:03pm PT
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GOOD WORK MEN!
Quality routes every one of those!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jan 28, 2010 - 11:48am PT
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Right on. I was there 2 weeks ago. And will be back for the duration soon...
kev
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 2, 2010 - 02:35am PT
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Thanks gentlemen. Kev, you get to go to the valley "for the duration" huh. that must be tough...
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Author's Reply
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Oct 19, 2010 - 03:03am PT
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Hey Fred, have you been back to the tunnel?
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