The Surprise, Five Open Books 5.10a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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The GPS coordinates for this route are shown below. See the GPS Marker Legend at right for details on each marker. Click on the Marker to see the actual GPS coordinates.

Approach
Walk toward Lower Yosemite Fall for 100 yards looking left for a climbers’ trail marked by a carabiner post. Follow the climbers’ trail marked by three more carabiner posts. The fourth post is within 15 feet of the wall and the start of Munginella. For Commitment and all routes to the right, climb the first 20 feet of the Munginella 3rd class and move way right on a ledge. Another option is, from the last carabiner post, to skirt the base of the wall down a few hundred feet then up.

Descent
The descent takes about 15 minutes back to the base (no fun in climbing shoes). Walk west and a little down for a few hundred yards on a climbers’ trail until you reach the open slabs area. Continue west across the slabs to a 3rd/4th class descent trail. Consider rappelling this section when wet with one­ 60m rope (or 50m rope by staying a bit to the left at the bottom). Below the slabs, follow the trail east and downward along the base, then slightly back uphill to the last carabiner post at the start of Munginella. Reverse the approach.

Five Open Books - The Surprise 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara