Japanese Couloir, Mount Barrill III, 55-70 degree snow or ice

   
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Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2-3 days
Approach time: 30 minutes from Gorge
Descent time: 2-5 hours
Number of pitches: N/A
Height of route: 2,750'
Overview
The western wall of the Ruth Gorge seems almost impenetrable except by the deep notches between the peaks allowing access to the lower angle back sides. Mount Barrill, however, holds a secret little couloir that soars straight up its eastern façade, allowing relatively simple access up this forbidding face. This southeast couloir, first climbed by the Japanese, is “in” for a long part of the season. This makes it an attractive climb, either as a proud objective for a beginning climber, or as a quick romp for a seasoned alpinist. It is also a good descent route for the more technical rock climbs on the east face, so potentials for those climbs may want to climb it to familiarize themselves with their future descent.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Mount Barrill - Japanese Couloir III, 55-70 degree snow or ice - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Joe Puryear
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Cobra Pillar, VI, 5.11, C1+, 50-degree snow
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An overview of the line.
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