Moonlight Buttress, Moonlight Buttress Area 5.12d or 5.9 C1

  
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Zion National Park, Utah, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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  (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  (5.0)
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4 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (4)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Brew Monkey

Big Wall climber
Bend Ory-Gun
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    Jul 31, 2009 - 10:09pm
Unbelievable! Soloed it back in 2003. Never too hard or dangerous; its C1 the whole way except for the first pitch (5.8-5.9). I found a 4" piece useful in the slot on pitch 5. Many Metolious yellow's on P.4 and red/orange up higher. One could sleep on top of 5, but a portaledge is better. The upper half of the route is super fun and clean. If this a first wall for anyone; don't get tripped out by the 4th pitch. Its a bit exposed and thin. Keep in mind that it only gets better and better the higher you go.
Gear: Lots of TCU's; one cliff hanger; Many small/med stoppers; 2 sets up to #2 camalot, 1 #3 & 1 #4.
Please do not cam hook! The route is showing wear from them (ie. under roof of Pitch 2).
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
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    Oct 23, 2014 - 05:28pm
Did this route about a week ago. Great fun the whole way. Some have expressed concern over the small roof on I believe pitch two. The placement under the roof could be a little sketchy but I found that using a Totem Cam, I think it was either the blue or yellow, worked like a charm and was SOLID! The rest of the route is just plain old cool and lots of fun. I'll try and get a TR up soon.
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
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    Jul 31, 2009 - 05:48pm
Simply awesome!!!!
Moonlight Buttress Area - Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or 5.9 C1 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the loop road.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.