A few notes: the 1oth pitch as shown on the Supertopo for Astroman actually ends ON the ledge below the final pitch, not under the roof just shy of the ledge. A 60m cord easily reaches and the belay takes 1" to 2" cams. It's more comfortable to belay (you can sit down) and haul from the ledge and very scenic.
I don't know if anyone really does a "chicken wing dyno" to get into the Harding Slot. It's tight hands/off fingers to a hand jam, and from the hand jam you pull up and knee bar into the chimney. I think most people squirm through the chimney left side in, for some reason right side in works best for me. As of 2/22/03 the route was bone dry and in perfect condition.
WEATHER
What an amazing winter! From November to March there have only been a handful or non-climbable weekends. Cragging temps have been perfect and some dry spells have been warm enough to get on the big routes. That said, this unusually incredible winter could be followed by a miserable and wet spring. You never know.
In general, climbing conditions can be pleasant during warm dry spells after the notoriously wet and cold Pacific storms pass through. High temps range in the 40-50's and lows in the 20's-30's. There are generally few climbers or tourists during this time of year so it’s a great time to visit if you get good weather and have a warm place to sleep at night.
Most south facing crags should be climbable during dry spells. Most long climbs are cold and wet but there are exceptions (Manure Pile Buttress).
CAMPING
Camp 4 is open and basically empty. It may have snow right after a storm but it generally melts out after a few days. Bring extra extra warm clothes and sleeping bags.
All other campgrounds are not crowded and should be easy to get into. Check out the camping info at the SuperTopo Yosemite page. <a href='http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html#yostaying'> SuperTopo Yosemite page. </a>
BEARS
The bears have been relatively well behaved this year but you should still remove all food and all things that smell or look like food from your car.
To see web cam shot of Yosemite Valley <A HREF='http://www.yosemite.org/vryos/index.htm'>click here</a>
To get a weather report for Yosemite Valley <A HREF='http://weather.yahoo.com/forecast/Yosemite_CA_US_f.html'>click here</a>
Tom McMillan and I replaced 6 bolts this Saturday:
anchor at the base of the Enduro anchor at Overnight ledge one bolt at optional belay on pitch 5 one bolt at belay below Harding Slot
Note that the Supertopo shows no bolts at Overnight ledge. There was a three 1/4" bolt anchor that Chris removed on a rebolting trip in 97. After reconsideration we decided that the anchor should not have been removed (it is shown in the Reid topo as a bolted station, and good natural pro requires 1" cams that most won't have after the Enduro pitch).
Most of the bolts that we replaced were NOT original (except the optional on pitch 5), but were placed by Werner Braun to replace pin anchors or slung blocks.
There is still a nasty anchor marked as a false belay on the Supertopo in the middle of pitch 10.
We also replaced ugly webbing with rap rings on the first pitch.
Bob Steed
Advanced climber
Jun 15, 2001 - 03:04am
I think fast and light is the way to go. We used a 50 meter leadline and a 6mm tag/hauline to haul the pack so the second could climb unhindered (containing light jackets, water, some food, and one small headlamp) We ran the first 2 pitches together with some simalling. Start at first light at the start so you can get back down the slabs in time for pizza. I can't remember the rack exactly but I think we brought one or two each of the smallest cams and three each of cams from green or yellow alien thru a yellow camalot size and one or 2 cams in the blue #3 camalot size. On the second to the last pitch I got a little gacked since I didn't have enough larger pro for the 5.9 ow. Maybe I would bring a 3.5 camalot and another #3 for that pitch and leave them in the pack for that pitch for the next time I go up. Probably the radest climb I've ever done. Supersolid, clean, and beautiful. A great line. You only need a few 1" to 2" cams for the harding slot pitch: no big or small stuff. It will only get you stuck. A helmet might also get you stuck (we didn't bring any- the route is super clean). Also a single set of nuts with a couple of the medium-large hb aluminum offsets. We used a petzl tibloc on an oval to haul. A lot of liebacking. Probably more than on most routes of the grade. It pays to train
Tom McMillan
Advanced climber
Jun 11, 2001 - 04:00pm
I did Astroman this weekend for the fourth time. The next to last belay is very very bad and needs to have the existing bolts pulled and replaced, but I had neither kit nor time to do that. Also, I could swear that a foothold is missing on the last pitch, just where you pass the one fixed pin, so you are better off staying just a bit to the left initially or there is a good chance you will break your leg or worst. If you stay left initially you can get a piece in but it is still very dangerous. However since most people will tend to go straight up, if it could be done without a lynching, that would be another good place for a bolt or a drilled angle piton!
Astroman takes a brilliant steep and clean line.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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anchor at the base of the Enduro
