Penelope's Problem, Swan Slab 5.7

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
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macgyver

Social climber
Oregon, but now in Europe
Oct 7, 2004 - 10:03am
 
Great way to break into 5.7 hands. The stances are solid for placing gear and the jams are solid for a variety of hand sizes. The traverse can be protected by slinging the flake but the traverse is 5.5 at max.

Continue up Swan Slab gully for a full rope length, belay in the gully, and have your 2nd run up and continue up the gully to the 5.5 fingers described in the topo for Swan Slab gully.

Cheers
A
mmurduff

Trad climber
Tustin, California
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    Jul 6, 2005 - 07:38pm
Yup I think its 5.7 and a little weird to have hands in a crack that feels more like a layback type flake. I believe the crux lies at the end of the flake before the traverse. Protect the traverse even though it's easy.

MIKE
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
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    Jul 7, 2005 - 06:36pm
I've climbed this twice. the first time I led it, I was distracted by the traffic noise, and the rating seemed about 5.7.
went back a couple of years later, and it seemed easier.
Swan Slab - Penelope's Problem 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Swan Slab offers the highest concentration of short, moderate routes in Yosemite.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.