Approach from 41 has vicious wasps that guard the first rap station. About 50 feet above the anchor. My friend got about 4 bites and I got about 8-10? Was bad. Be careful!
The route is still amazing though.
The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
Rostrum, North Face - 5 bolts replaced by ASCA on 7/99
All belays have bomber bolts or bomber natural pro.
radical
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
May 27, 2002 - 06:11am
Thad my brother!!!!!
I'm already feeling vitamin R deficient.
Thanks for hauling my lardy ass up this beautiful climb.
radical
Stefan Griebel
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jun 4, 2002 - 06:55pm
As of 5/30/2002, someone took a sh#t on the first pitch, and there were clumps of human feces running all down the 5.7 lb. Pathetic and Disgusting. Rumors are already circulating about who the loser is that couldn't lower to the ground to quickly take care of business. Apparently, he fessed up to another group of climbers at the halfway ledge that I spoke with. I'm not going to disclose his name here, but I feel a public apology is necessary.
AJ
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jun 10, 2002 - 01:37pm
Hmm.. someone must have cleaned up the turds on pitch 1.
Did the route for the first time Thursday 6/6, it was in great shape. What a blast
It's open, the following was posted a month ago but of course got lost in the vast number of forum posts - Greg
--------------------------------
As of August 1st the Peregrine closures are officially over. At Fifi buttress there still may be a nesting pair with chicks. However, Fifi buttress has not been an area of Peregrine-Climber conflicts since there aren't many popular climbs on that section of rock. However, please avoid the top of the buttress for a few more weeks.
The Rostrum pair fledged two chicks, and they seem to have left their eyrie. A couple YOSAR siters climbed the route on Tuesday to see if are how the birds would react. They did not see or hear the birds the whole time. They are probably still be in the area though, so while climbing please try to avoid being overly boisterous.
Thanks everyone for respecting these closures. At least two more supersonic birds are cruising the Valley now! Enjoy the Rostrum. Keep it clean, and keep it safe.
a. Rostrum descent - you really need a 60m rope for one of the rappels.
Also, on Rostrum's last pitch (5.9 OW), right after it becomes too wide and #6BD doesn't fit anymore, there is a hidden little crack on the right wall that takes small (blue to yellow) aliens - it's a nice alternative to doing 5.7/8X moves at the top of the OW.
Also, on Rostrum's last pitch (5.9 OW), right after it becomes too wide and #6BD doesn't fit anymore, there is a hidden little crack on the right wall that takes small (blue to yellow) aliens - it's a nice alternative to doing 5.7/8X moves at the top of the OW.
Does this mean that you climb this hidden crack, or does it mean that you place gear in it but climb the offwidth as normal?
One of the finest multi-pitch 5.11 climbs anywhere.
Photo: Mark Kroese
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
