Sherrie's Crack, Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.10c

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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  (3.0)
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  (4.4)
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Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 40%  (2)
4 star: 60%  (3)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Rob

Intermediate climber
Mar 3, 2002 - 03:46pm
 
Another Pat and Jack must do. Thin fingers take one through the crux, then its thin hands to a face move to get to the anchors. I used gear no larger than a #1 Camalot.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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    May 6, 2003 - 12:55am
A lot of folks have trouble with the thin crack crux of this route. My secret, which it hard to explain is this. There is a very thin crack in the back of groove shaped rock. I smear my toes on either side of the groove and lock my heels together so I can apply outward pressure on my toes. I get some good finger locks and then hike my feet up the groove using this weird counterpressure.

Just an idea

peace

karl
Bill

climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 6, 2003 - 07:45pm
 
A friend of mine watched a guy float this pitch. He told him that the secret was to point your toes straight down with the inside edge smeared in the crack. I'll have to try this next time.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 15, 2004 - 12:06am
 
Lot's of beta on different ways to do this... I actually have my feet out of the crack for parts of it, where there are bumps on the rough granite on either side of the crack. In the real crux section I have to have a foot in the crack. My guess is that I get the outside-front of the foot smeared in as far as I need. Get good locks and move up... definitely good practice on finger crack! it's only 5.10c!
altieboo

Social climber
Das Blase
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    Jun 15, 2009 - 07:45pm
This was a great lead for me. Powered through the crux on pretty solid pro. I think a yellow alien would have been perfect for the fingers but I did not have one so ya. Ran it out a bit. The hands section is flawless and sustained.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 9, 2015 - 06:26pm
 
I was out there with Peter Croft and Dan Guthrie in spring of 1986. Dan and I were climbing with ropes and gear while Peter was soloing. I watched Peter down solo Sherrie's crack. He made it look like climbing down a ladder. Every move perfect.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 10, 2015 - 12:07am
 
An old favorite. Crux thin crack section takes #6 stoppers like a boss.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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    Dec 10, 2015 - 09:21pm
If you are face climbing well and feel good on your feet then this one felt like a giveaway at the old rating 5.10d. I did it unroped once when it was early in the season and wasn't greasy at all. Great climb even if the business is over just as it gets interesting.

I even met Sherrie BITD.
Pat and Jack Pinnacle - Sherrie's Crack 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
A great finger and hand crack.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.