scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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The bolts are essentially half way up the climb.
The top of the climb is at the top of the cliff.
There's good climbing above the anchors, you just can't
lower off using one rope, that's all.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Boo yah yosemite valley rock gods, you've created a work of art on this climb! Great big tri cams worked sweet in the wide crack at the bottom. The knob traverse was really fun and exciting, I utilized a mantle on the big tie off knob, to right crimp on little knob/ far right foot to get up. The top is more fun, left hands on knobs and right hand in crack. Beautiful.
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Tattooed 1
Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
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This was a great climb with a lot of variety. Wide cracks, fingers, balancy face and knob climbing. Hard for 10a and definately hard for shorter climbers as there are some very long reaches between knobs. There are new rap bolts at what is essentially the top of the climb (a little lower than the previous top). Rap to the ground with one 60m. Also approach beta differs. There is a climbers trail directly across from the Generator Station look for the old power pole across the street from the start of the highway rock wall.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I like the route description for this one...enourmous knobs that still defy usage. I found myself mantling then riding one monster blob like a pony. The wall was dead vertical so getting from that position to where I was standing on the knob without diving over backwards was a fun trick!
Bring long slings for the knobs on the traverse to protect yourself and your second.
If you had fun w/ "one of the hardest 10a's" and you're feeling like a little solid 5.11 action, try out "Wasp" next door. (The Reid guide rates it alternately 5.9+ and 5.9d) It's really cool, but definately not 5.9. Bring brass nuts for pro. (Or do like I did and bring someone else to lead it...)
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
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