Brandon Seymore
Mountain climber
slc, ut
|
 |
I have to say that since I've started leading 4 years ago and after many long seasons spent in areas all over the US I have not fallen on anything with an easier rating than 5.9+ and I fell off this start. I just think sandbagging does no good for people looking for real beta. That said, The fall is not that big of a deal as the ground is way flat. Also, if you own a 6 and you are not a 10a yosemite climber you might bring it with and place it before the moves gaining the crack which are also quite techy "smokem if you gotem". Anchor is db #2 and a couple finger size pieces or a #5.
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
I led the 5.9 unnamed tips route, with the direct face start up to the undercling. My partner called the crux 5.9d :) - it is a delicate crux. The book says "hard to protect, so rarely led", I did not find it so - I laced it with small cams and I did place a ball-nut, which not everyone carries. The direct start face to the undercling may once have been 5.8 - not anymore....
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Did 5.8 under-cling variation on lead. .5 purple camalot is a nice piece to have on the upper part of the crack for pro. Fun but short.
Bolt anchor is missing on top, but it is very easy to built your own.
|
David D.
Trad climber
California
|
|
Fun route, anchor bolts are still missing as of March 2011.
|
Scott Anderson
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Warmed up on this route April 9, 2010. Took the underclig variation. Above that, great hand/finger jam all the way up. Anchor for the toprope required long slings and a nut. No bolts to use. Fun/easy climb. Both of my girls 12/14yrs sailed up this as well.
|
BoKu
Trad climber
Douglas Flat, CA
|
|
Anchor bolts are still missing as of 26 October 2009. The sleeves are there, but no bolts or hangers.
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
the anchor bolts are still missing as of 1/20/2008.
small and big gear will work to set this up, bring several shoulder length to drop the anchor point over the lip though.
|
drb1215
Trad climber
|
|
We climbed this route, and the 5.9 variation on 9/11..always a favorite for the quality of the crack. It would be nice to see the 2 bolts that have been removed replaced. Easy enough to setup gear for a top rope...the bolts were just very conveinent.
|
Couloir
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
|
|
I believe the face variation to the left is also 5.9 or perhaps 10a.
|
10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
|
|
Climbed the 5.9 tips variation this weekend. I've got fat fingers, and it was definitely a tips crack for me. Did the 5.8 undercling for the start, and that seemed more like 5.7.
tr'd the face to the left. does anyone know what that's rated?
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
We climbed this on April 16, 2005, and there are no longer anchor bolts or evidence of holes, so I presume the bolts were removed and the holes patched. It is fairly easy to place a toprope anchor with TCUs and a hand-sized cam, though.
|
Scott Bullock
Trad climber
Merced, CA
|
|
Climbed here on Monday Dec 13. Both anchor bolts need tightening. Take a wrench and snug them up.
I give this 4 stars after leading it a few times and tr'ing it. The straight in jams on top rope are so clean and fast that it makes me giggle... weird huh?
The start seems harder than 8 harder than the 9 face moves on the unnamed route above it. But it's not as hard as the opening moves on "Just for Starters" 10a. The undercling traverse is the easiest way to the crack.
|
Couloir
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
|
|
The slab start is definitely hard for 5.8. Just keep your right foot a few feet right of the crack and you get some friction.
|
Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
|
|
watch out for the finger crushing loose block too. Either start is pretty exciting on lead, but I like the undercling best. I've climbed 5.10 face climbs that felt easier than the slabby start. Also, the 5.9 face variation/tips crack is fun. more stars if longer for sure.
|
Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
|
|
You can walk around to the anchors of this route, makes for an easy top rope.
|
davidji
Social climber
CA
|
|
The slab start is more like 5.8 MA. Maybe a move or two of 5.11b, but you're low and you can jump off if you like. The 5.8 undercling start variation is pretty fun.
The route is fun but short--it would get more stars if it were longer.
|
|
Knob Hill is a great introduction to longer Yosemite 5.7 and 5.8 pitches.Photo: Chris McNamara
|
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
