Five and Dime, Five and Dime Cliff 5.10d

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  (4.8)
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Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 75%  (3)
4 star: 25%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Matt

Trad climber
May 29, 2003 - 07:29pm
 
The crux is an awkward section of flaring off fingers to tight hands, about a .75 (green) cam size. I found it was at about this point on the climb:



[Click to View Linked Image]


Set up an extended anchor on or near the tree to climbers left after you top out, that way you can keep the rope out of the crack for your 2nd or for a TR.
Lars Ensign

Trad climber
Zephyr Cove, NV
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    Oct 11, 2005 - 12:39pm
Matt, your picture totally cracks me up - I had the same experience in the same spot! That steep, off-fingers no feet lieback for 8-10 feet is the business for sure!
malabarista

Trad climber
Portland, OR
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    Nov 27, 2005 - 12:14pm
Lieback Lars? For me it was straight in thru the crux -lock one hand, then the other -not much for the feet. It's all there but keep moving or the pump will get the better of you. Very nice pitch.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 4, 2011 - 01:26am
 
One of the most awesome cracks I've climbed so far. The hand crack finish is all glory. Highly recommend this climb.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 4, 2011 - 09:56am
 
Did the second ascent of this Barry Bates classic. Did it again last year and it had not lost any of it's appeal. Used to run laps on it bitd.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 4, 2011 - 11:56am
 
I've done it many times through the years, led it
and, always a joy, great pro
anywhere you want or need it, bomber finger and hand jams,
but steep. If you use your feet well, it goes much more
solidly than if you power up it...
Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
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    May 6, 2011 - 04:47am
One of the best splitter cracks in the Valley, but of course it was climbed before the term "splitter" existed. I used to never leave the Valley without a lap, lead or top rope, on it. Now I'm having trouble getting past the crux. Werner used to free solo it as part of his regular regime. The best remark I ever heard about it was from Dave Altman, formerly known as "the mayor of Indian Rock": "the only time Five and Dime wasn't too hot was when there were snowflakes in the air".
Five and Dime Cliff - Five and Dime 5.10d - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.