Waverly Wafer, The Cookie Cliff 5.11a

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  (4.5)
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
poop*ghost

Trad climber
Denver, CO
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    Mar 27, 2004 - 12:38pm
It's 1970-ish 5.10c and 2004-ish 5.11a.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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    Mar 27, 2004 - 10:39pm
The real beta question on Waverly is whether to face the river or the stone when you climb the wide pod. It makes a big difference.

I face the river. with my back to the cliff. I wear knee pads and get a relaxing no hands rest in a chimney position just before grabbing a finger lock to get a solid stem for placing pro and starting the lieback. Others have told me they face the rock instead, so either way works. They did have blood coming from their knees though.

How easy it is to Jam the final stretch depends on how big your hands are. Smaller handed folks might get thin hands. If you lieback, there is a decent semi-knob on the face about halfway through the crux that you can rock your foot onto and stand up straight and place pro, then resume cranking.

Probably too much info for the 5.11 climbers out there but hey, you're reading the beta pages on supertopo. Waverly is a solid challenge for most 5.10 climbers. It starts out easier than it looks. The pod spanks a few folks and the other may find that the solid feeling lieback has a way of pumping you good before it's over.

Peace

Karl
ClimbingHuman

Trad climber
Bay Area
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    Mar 28, 2004 - 01:16pm
For the pod I find facing away from the rock (that's left side in) significantly easier than the other way around.

And in the lieback remember to let the rope drape over your right thigh and not between your legs or were you to whip as I've done it may catch under your knee. Rope burns that bleed are the worst.
J-Dogg

Trad climber
colorado
Mar 25, 2004 - 01:49am
 
In older books this route is rated 10c, in some newer books its rated 11a. So which one is it?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jul 9, 2009 - 11:59am
 
I got this beta from a supertopo user: I didn't find Waferly Wafer as good as other 5 * climbs on the Cookie... maybe I'm the only one. To me it felt burly, and not too cool. 11a for sure though, or the hardest 10c ever!
The Cookie Cliff - Waverly Wafer 5.11a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Todd Snyder
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.