Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Climbed the route on 1/11/14 again - the block on top of P2 is gone. Good rapell slings with 2 rings on top.
My friend and I did both raps with a 70M rope.
Optional rack was Doubles to BD #2. One extra .4 BD or yellow metolius for finger cracks. One BD #3 and one #4 camalots for second pitch.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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A GIANT loose boulder on top of 2nd pitch. As you top out from wide crack it sits directly infront and begs to be used as a jug to make the traverse to the tree easier. My friend grabbed it and it moved 2 inches towards him, but thank god stopped there. If it goes, it will take everything in its path OUT. BE VERY CAREFUL UP THERE.
Aside from that, what a great climb! Both pitches are awesome. It requires many different kinds of crack climbing. Short chimney, hand crack, OW, fingercrack, fists, and I did some stacks on top too. Great route.
1-2 BD #4 cams are nice to have. Yellow metolious finger-sized piece or three is very useful on the finger cracks
#5 is not required.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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I had to read Fingerlok's comments before climbing this route, not after.
Taking #4 camelot for this route was obvious because you see a good placement for it. But if you place it before you pass the roof and have your "foot on edge on the left lip" ( see Fingerlock beta) - you can not climb past it ( or it very difficult to do). Anyway - placing #4 kill my on-site attempt for p1. Later on top rope this part ( passing the wide roof) still felt as 5.10 not as 5.10a.
And for the second pitch you want to add 2 blue camelots and 2 #4 friends. For 11b crux sections you need at least 3 yellow aliens. 10b fist section on p2 is overrated. There are many 5.9 in the Valley felt harder
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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This is better than the 3 stars Supertopo gives it. I'd say at least 4.
I don't agree with Billiebob about the wide section on the first pitch. A large cam would be hard to climb past. The back of the crack takes good #1 Camalot sized gear. And, of course, it also provides good hands. The key to this section is hand jamming the right hand in the back and focusing on the left foot. When you get that foot up on the edge on the left lip, you've got it made since there is an even bigger edge just overhead. Low 5.10 if you do it like this.
The crux of the pitch is starting into the finger crack with two hard moves before you get to the first hand jam. The moves at the end up to the anchor are not quite as hard. If you bring plenty of small gear, then you can leave the scattered hand jams open for your hands and feet.
You can sew up the first pitch by bringing 3 (or even 4) each green Alien through #1 Camalot and nothing bigger. There is a nice placement for a mid-sized stopper (I used a #6 Wallnut) at the traverse right. I didn't use any other nuts.
Good rest in the middle at the traverse.
Haven't done the second pitch yet, so I don't know if it needs anything bigger than the #1 Camalot--perhaps some #2s. It looks good, though, maybe I'll end up bumping this to 5 stars.
The climb was wet during that long rain/snow spell, but looks like it should dry quickly with the warmer dry weather. I'm looking forward to the second pitch!
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billiebob
Advanced climber
San Jose, CA
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beta for p1
a #4 camalot for the 5.10a (my ass!) offwidth section makes this very well protected. Use long slings on the traverse. The crux is near the very top of p1. stay fresh!
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