Fingerlocks
Trad climber
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If you are feeling snide AND are starting to think that climbing at the Cookie isn't strenous BUT is all finesse and balance AND you are feeling pugnacious SO that you want a climb willing to fight back THEN you need do nothing more than turn right at the top of the trail BECAUSE the Enema is what you are looking for.
This was a much more physical climb that anything else I've done on the Cookie--haven't tried Twilight--and the steepest crack I've been on for awhile. It is really good and wild climbing.
The approach pitch is mellow and has good bolts (go past the pair of old ones) at a small ledge. Bring up some water since this is a hard breathing kind of climb.
On the climb itself, there is a decent rest before you hit the overhang and the namesake knob is a great rest. Otherwise it is sustained climbing. Sport climbing fans will love the juggy overhanging knobs, but there is plenty of jamming to do.
The crux really is the upper crack even though it is much less steep. Instead it is a shallow flare that stays around the size of a #4 Friend. There also are some thin cracks/seams up there--a blue Alien was right before one of my #4 Friends and a green one followed it.
I don't have the juice to try and put stoppers into a climb like this. I used only cams with extras from yellow Alien to #2 Friend. Having a couple of #4 Friends for the top was nice.
The bolts at the top are not pretty, but they get the job done. I would have replaced the webbing if I had remembed to take some up. Maybe latter this spring or fall.
We rapped from the start of the climb to a tree that you passed on the approach pitch. This seemed easier than going over to the bolts on the left (above Stigma) as shown in Supertopos.
What a workout!
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbin's good
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Hmmm. About what I said last time. Only this time it was easier since I put in less pro. Go figure.
We rapped from the start of the climb all the way to the ground with a 60m that just reached with rope stretch. Our rope might be a tad long, but down climbing the last few feet wouldn't be a big deal either.
Good climb for staying out of the sun.
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426
climber
☬
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This climb is so classic. Nice 5.7 double crack warmup approach....
Spoiler below!
No hands (namesake) after the steep enduro but expect the top will be cerebral, maybe 11a? Kind of "Lunatic Fringy"...but harder.
We only used up to a 3 Camalot (used in steep) but the top felt a little run and grainy when we did it...(took some good .5)...Fingerlock prolly got it right, save a biggie...
Fuggin' sweet, and best is no lines on this bad boy.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Saw a few brosefs on it a month or so ago. Got a few shots. I bet at least one of them is a member of the forum..
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Rankin
Social climber
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
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A great route! The crux is above knob and involved a flared jam. It's easy to hose the second by plugging a nice finger lock with gear from what I remember.
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