Butterballs, The Cookie Cliff 5.11c

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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JC

climber
Feb 26, 2004 - 02:18pm
 
Big fingers are nice for this climb. I have thin fingers and have an easier time with Red Zinger
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
May 18, 2003 - 07:25pm
 
The best pitch of the three pitch Nabisco wall classic: Waverly- Butterballs-Butterfingers.

For the first half of the climb several diorite bumps provide some small sloping feet that at least provide something to stand on. There are good fingers through out this part. Then the crux is rattling fingers with little but the crack for feet. This section is short, and if you get to the flare above it, then you got it made.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jan 26, 2008 - 08:03pm
 
I agree on the red zinger comment. while most of butterballs is straight forward, it was always the off fingers near the top for me. I have very small hands which was always good on routes like tales or short circuit. btw who ever gave the detailed beta on red zinger re left hand in pod, reach with right was very accurate in my book.
The Cookie Cliff - Butterballs 5.11c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Todd Snyder
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.