Pole Position, Church Bowl 5.10a

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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johnhl94563

Trad climber
Orinda
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    Apr 6, 2004 - 09:14pm
I managed to lead my way up this climb on 4/3/04 (first 5.10 lead in valley). I found the first bolt in a bit of a strange position. It was off and to the left of the moves that lead up to the second bolt. I found the moves to the second bolt to be a challenge especially with a tree below me to "catch me". Once clipped into the second bolt, nice small edge moves lead up to the third bolt (I believe it is the crux). I found most of the climbing a challenge mixed in with partial chickenheads to stand on.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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    Apr 7, 2004 - 12:43am
If you go straight up to the tree you can find a cam placement in the arching crack on your right just before a thin move up to the bolt. I don't completely remember the cam size, a blue or yellow Metolius #1 or #2 (something like 0.6" to 0.75"). This eases the mind considerably when making the step up to the bolt.

I never understood the first bolt so far off to the left, I suspect the route starts more left then it seems it should.

A nice climb though, I'd recommend it.
sixleggedinsect

Trad climber
Oct 6, 2005 - 01:16pm
 
i agree with the other posters that the logical line is straight up to the tree, avoiding the slabby left start with the left bolt.

this is the only route ive done out of a supertopo guide where the gear beta was off. there were two distinct spots where you could get good trad gear in between distant bolts.

my rack for this route would be blue-yellow aliens, and small nuts(?), plus the draws you need. maybe take a couple green aliens, but i wasnt paying that much attention.
Church Bowl - Pole Position 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Church Bowl has on of the easiest approaches in the Valley.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.