Fingerlocks
Trad climber
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This is one of my favorites since it runs through so many sizes and has such good moves.
Some people lieback the start, but I like the straight-in finger jams. This is the crux.
Higher you get overhanging but perfect handjams--think Indian Creek, a la, Incredible Hand Crack.
Many people seem to bail at the chock stone with slings. The rest of the pitch should not be skipped, however. It is mostly around fat hands to fist size with a two move section of off width size that is harder to puzzle out than it is to climb.
Don't really need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot, although you might want as many as three of them.
The anchor is funny, but sound.
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Matt
Trad climber
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I agree that the crux is the wide fingers/ polished dihedral start, even if the steep hands looks like the business from the ground, there are great jambs and lots of feet up there. The off-width at the top is not very hard, even if you are as winded as I was when I got there...
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Sir Run-it-out
Trad climber
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The slings on the chockstone before the offwidth are gone.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Great route. However, the ST suggested rack said gear to 2 inches. This was grossly inadequate for my partner and I, and I ended up having to tag the big gear up to him for the .10 OW above the crux.
I would suggest bringing a few big cams if you're going to continue up to the normal belay, and don't like running it out on the OW. Although, the fall is clean.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I agree. When I did this I bailed from the (now defunct?) chockstone because I didn't have any big gear or a tag line to haul with. Bring some big stuff, though only 2 or 3 should suffice. Once you change corners into the wide stuff, it's a ways, but not a long ways, to the anchor.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Gear recomendation: 3 of each from Red Alien to Blue Camalot. Plus blue, green and yellow aliens for junk start of first 20 feet. Plus #4C4 (optional) to be relax on the route close to the ancors. You can barely make it with one 70M rope-(it will be 10 feet short to the ground)- if you willing to downclimb last 10-12 feet.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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I feel that the super topo rack is a mis-print. You can tell by looking up at it, but I would say that even a highly competent valley climber would like 2 #3 camalot's or equivalent and, besides the extra weight, would not at all mind having a #4.
No gear smaller than a .5 camalot at the bottom.
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