Roulette, Leaning Tower A3 5.6

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 9, 2015 - 11:10am
 
Yes it is, Rhodo-Rooter. That always got my attention, too -- just not enough to actually hump gear and take a closer look at it.

John
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Nov 9, 2015 - 09:08am
 
Is this the one with the notation '50' to bolt- pancake potential"? That always got my attention.
CanopyGorilla

Big Wall climber
Lolo, MT
Nov 7, 2015 - 11:30am
 
The Sloan book calls this route A4+. I went to solo this in 08. I humped all my crap to the base and bivied. Woke up in the morning and started hooking and rurping to the first roof. At this point I was about 30-35 feet off the ledge. I made one more move to look over the roof and it looked like another 30 feet or so to a shiny bolt on what looked like more hooking and rurps. I decided I didn't want to die and lowered off one rurp down cleaning as I went. I walked all of my crap back to the valley floor and started looking for a partner for a more sane route like lost in America. If this pitch was higher I may have committed, but looking at what could potentially be a 50-60 foot ledge fall I let my tiny shriveled balls get the best of me. Maybe I didn't see a rivet or something. I wouldn't go looking for an A3 experience here.
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Jul 29, 2007 - 10:43pm
 
sounds pretty spicy . fishing....
Leaning Tower - Roulette A3 5.6 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.