cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Was up on this route last weekend and replaced a bunch of bolts courtesy of the ASCA. I was impressed by the amount of junk webbing on and around the route.
I was just tagging along for a day so there are still a ton of bolts that could be replaced in the first four pitches.
I replaced 1 bolt at the optional anchor between 2 & 3 (on the supertopo). This is now 1 - 3/8" and 2 - 1/4" but can be skipped.
The Pitch 3 and Pitch 4 anchors have 2 3/8" bolts and a smattering of 1/4" bolts.
A few bolts were replaced on the bolt ladder on Pitch 3 and on the final bolt ladder on pitch 4. So expect to see some old and exciting bolts. There are 3/8 bolts on pitch 4 for the free route (for the most part these are off to the side.
You can rappel from pitch 4 with two 60m ropes. One of the rap stations looked to have a 5/16" bolt along with a 3/8" bolt. You could fix three 60m ropes to get to P4.
Another topo:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hddaid.pdf
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The Direct Northwest Face.Photo: Chris McNamara
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