Scorched Earth, El Capitan A4 5.8

  
Search
Go

Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Sort 4 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  (4.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 19, 2010 - 03:25pm
 
here is the original topo from the first ascent


http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/el-capitan-scorched-earth.pdf

Note on the back of the topo:

top left corner top right corner
note on back of original FA topo of Scorched Earth, El Capitan
note on back of original FA topo of Scorched Earth, El Capitan
Credit: Chris McNamara
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 23, 2011 - 08:14pm
 
Great photo Essay here by Pass The Pitons Pete

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/BFC_s_Big_F_ckin_Cams_for_El_Capitan_5017.html
cornel

climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
    Mar 25, 2011 - 01:52pm
I highly recommend this route. Did Scorched Earth in Spring of 1998 w/ Warren Hollinger and Brad Jackson. Brad sent the Levitator with a total of maybe 4 pieces at most. I am not exagerating maybe 4, maybe 3 for the entire offwidth. One of the most impressive leads I have ever seen. Doing the sidewinder technique 1500 ft off the deck, it was a thing of beauty. The levitator flake is attached on the top and the bottom so you can see through the flake. If you do it I also recommend you don't clip the junk[ the small heads you place or any of the small fixed heads] If you rip you will just have to clean out those placements and redo all that work. Small heads will not stop a fall anyway so why clip it. It will speed up your lead too. It took us 5 days with 3 pitches fixed. The run off was tremendous from the big winter that year but we were dry except for one belay where there was considerable seepage. I am not sure but I think it was the 10th belay. It is super overhung so hauling is awesome as well. By the way I don't know how it can have a 5.8 rating with the levitator being 5.11??? As Rob Slater said If you don't do the levitator you have not really done the route. Have fun!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
    Mar 28, 2011 - 08:54pm
I see Tom's photo collage of me leading through the roof is still working on his Valley Giants website:

http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/p5roof.html

A fun pitch, and not too terrifying as I recall.

Cheers!
El Capitan - Scorched Earth A4 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Scorched Earth
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.