The Shadow Nose, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.9 R

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

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wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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    Sep 23, 2015 - 01:28pm
And the cool thing is the old bolts are still there.......and the crux bolt spins like a Mepps # 4 luring the real ones close.....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 16, 2015 - 11:35am
 
Cool background! Thx for posting up.
jaco in fuegia

Mountain climber
Ridgway Colo
Sep 16, 2015 - 10:28am
 
1/4" bolts, similar to the distinct one you mention on the long lead-out, mark the original route, to the top. I choose the line on "The Shadow Nose" by how the mid-morning sun in July created a distinct shadow line. I scouted the route as much as I could from the ground, and from views while on routes to the side. I never rapped it, just climbed it, " on sight" [following the shadow]with my partner. He was Doug Wiens, if I remember right.
The name comes from the old radio serial, but is appropriate to anyone who wants to see for himself the original line. The shadow knows.
Jack Miller
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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    Aug 5, 2011 - 11:57am
Classic Meadows slab climbing with original rating of 5.7 upgraded to 5.9r. Some have said that the line may have crossed onto West Country for easier climbing but old, original bolts are clearly to the left of that route as per Reid/Falkenstein guide. Bolts have not been replaced and are bad, especially the one bolt above old belay bolts.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Stately Pleasure Dome - The Shadow Nose 5.9 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Stately Pleasure Dome above Tenaya Lake.
Photo: Ron Heinsman
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.