Footnote, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.10c R

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 33%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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   Aug 5, 2011 - 11:51am
All the bolts are new. This is a true 10.c slab climb. Crux is sustained after fourth bolt.
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:05pm
 
My notes say we TR'd this in 2002. It looked too scary to climb straight up to the first bolt. On TR this section felt like at least 5.8+. Easy to get to the anchors by starting up Hermaphrodite and traversing over.

[edit:] I notice that adding a beta caused a new post to appear. Is this a bug?
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:19pm
 
The photo overlay of the line and description above are wrong. Footnote is strictly a face climb and starts just left of Table of Contents.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:55pm
 
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jay Wood
bottom left corner bottom right corner
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
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   Aug 10, 2011 - 07:20pm
I lead this just after it went up. It took me a few tries up and down to commit to the crux at the top. The fact that you are well over 20' out at the time might have had something to do with it...

It is a great route for it's type but doesn't get lead much.
Stately Pleasure Dome - Footnote 5.10c R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.