Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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I don't recall putting in any bolts on Pitch 1 during the FA. Sure people are getting confused with the direct variation to the First Pitch added a little while ago? But I definitely did not put 3 bolts on Pitch 1 on the FA. Think there was some natural pro, but the pitch seemed way too easy to add bolts to. Just sort of a romp to get up to the start of the real climbing.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Certainly NOT ! There are many routes in TM that require allot more than just the ability to hang on tight. It is a great component of TM that all the routes are not sanitized, leaving a grand adventure (a bit of uncertainty) on a day out.
NO ADDED BOLTS
Doug
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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With regards to the story on the straight up finish here is the scoop. One of the original FA party, Bruce Morris gave us the verbal beta on the climb and told my partner, Julie Brugger, and I that you just went straight up on the last pitch. I got the lead and saw a bolt with a faded sling about 15-20' up. I went up, cleaned the sling, clipped the bolt and just assumed that there would be some more bolts up higher. About forty feet up I came to a pretty nice, flat, small ledge(8"x4") and when I didn't see a bolt from this obvious stance, I figured I was on my own. I couldn't down climb, but the holds were pretty positive so I just kept going. Eventually I headed a bit right and finally topped out.
Man, that would make a great finish to the route. I should go back and add some bolts. Or should I?
Bruce Hildenbrand
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Greg,
I think you may be correct here in that the left hand option does have a new bolt, it is the middle option (straight above the belay) that does not have a new bolt. I guided the middle a number of years ago, it was nice climbing, but way serious !
Doug
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Hey Doug, I thought that the bolt on the left variation had been replaced. It's the one on the straight-up variation, the one that's 15'-20' straight above the anchor, that's an old 1/4" with Leeper.
I could be wrong though - is that left variation bolt bad?
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Cryin' Time Again is one of the Tuolumne Classics at the grade, 5.9/10a. Each pitch has its own challenges and is unique, not for the faint of heart as it is a bit runout. I would add though that the left of three last pitch options is by far the nicest climbing, not really all that hard, but certainly not the kind of pitch you want to be careless on. With the old bolt and big run for the top, you'd really sail here if you broke a knob or got sloppy.
Greg, the bolt ought to be replaced as it is the orginal finish, and I have climbed and/or guided it allot over the years. Exceptional climbing !!!!
Doug
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Here is some more first ascent lore fro Greg Barnes:
The original last pitch is the hardest, but the original is never done because there are 3 other final pitch variations. The original last pitch, straight up past one bolt into a very long runout on "5.9" (5.10) climbing, was incomplete - one bolt off the belay, then the FA team walked off right. Before they came back to finish the pitch, Bruce Hildenbrand and a partner went up with incomplete beta (namely that the last pitch wasn't yet finished). Bruce did sketchy moves while cleaning off lichen way above that bolt, then came back and told the FA team that they were crazy since the rest of the route was well protected - and then the FA guys told him that they hadn't finished the pitch! At least that's how I remember the story, we can ask Bruce, he's still very active (let me know if you want his email address).
There is a left-angling pitch past one bolt that is pretty hard 5.9, the original finish which is sandbag 5.9 (actually 5.10 X from the two people I know who have done it), then the McDevitt finish to the right (5.10a tightly-bolted), and finally the 5.6 ledge "walk-off" to the right. The original finish has a single old 1/4" bolt with Leeper as the only pro bolt (about 15 feet above the belay), I didn't replace it since there's really no point - anyone ready to deal with that huge runout shouldn't need a good bolt, and if we replaced it then people might be suckered into climbing straight up thinking there are more new bolts hidden in the lichen.
Greg
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midarockjock
climber
USA
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See also: Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
I attempted this route in the 90's. The listed crux pitch
appeared to be a old bolt ladder. I saw no pro until a webbing
about 40'-50' up and slightly to the left past the final bolt of
the apparent ladder.
I believe I used the above book and though appearing run out
I'm not certain if a fall on this pitch deserves a X rating?
Also the book seemed very accurate protection wise.
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mdanek
Trad climber
California
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Climbed the route on 7/13/08. We linked P2 & P3 and set-up an anchor with a small nut and a small cam on the ledge below/to the right of the first bolts of P4 - not a solid one. The 10a finish is well protected - much better option than the original 5.9X finish.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Mike, Sir Run-it-out is most likely mistaken about new bolts on this route - in fact according to the 1982 Alan Nelson guide (which has a more accurate topo than the 1983 Reid/Falkenstein topo), there is very little discrepancy: 3 pro bolts p1, 1 bolt and 1 pin p1 anchor, 2 anchor bolts p2, 3 pro bolts p3, 1 anchor bolt p3, 5 pro bolts p4, nothing shown at p4 belay, 5 pro bolts p5, 2 anchor bolts p5, 2 bolts on left-leaning finish pitch, 1 piton on top.
The 3rd bolt on the first pitch was hangerless for many years, and so it was not spotted by many leaders (I slung it with a stopper my first time leading it). The Nelson guide shows everything the same as the Supertopo except:
the '82 guide shows a bolt on top of pitch 3 at the big ledge (not there anymore, I chopped that bolt in '99 or so because it was a single 1/4" bolt with Leeper next to a perfect crack, and people were rappelling off just the bolt, and I wasn't going to replace the bolt when there's a great crack).
the '82 guide shows 3 bolts not 4 in the initial steep section of pitch 4 - I think this is just an error in the Nelson guide since the current bolts are pretty evenly spaced.
The '82 guide also shows p4 as a belay but doesn't show bolts - I don't remember a crack so that's probably an error.
Other than that, everything is identical until the last pitch. Of course the mid-90s McDevitt finish is not there, but it shows the left finish as a diagonalling pitch with 2 bolts instead of the current 1, and it doesn't show the 5.9X finish (which Bruce H. accidentally did the FA of when they hadn't finished bolting that finish). Either they clipped that bolt and traversed way left (not what's shown on the topo), or there's a broken/pulled bolt on the left finish, or there's an error in the '82 guide.
Greg
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drc
Trad climber
Durham, NC
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Anyone find the belay location on top of pitch 3 a little odd? Crux move at the last bolt and the belay is 30' to the left? Screw the second. Had my follower take a bit of a swing on that one so I remembered.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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hmmm - sorry to hear that bolts got added to this route. That first pitch used to keep the crowds down. Whatever happen to respecting the first ascent party's skills and judgement? This is really an outstanding route. Great location, seems unlikely from a distance, excellent and varied climbing.
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Dragos
Sport climber
Bucharest
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I climbed it in 3 pitches. Linked every two pitches and avoided the cam belay. A little bit of rope drag at the first belay. Solid bolting, a little bit spaced on the first pitch. Very nice route. 6b french.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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The hardest parts are pretty well pro'd. There's a direct finish - felt 10c-ish. Think it's the finish to the route to the right. Anwyay, direct finish is very well pro'd - sport climb almost.
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luca
Trad climber
milano italy
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I did in july with marta my 12 daughter. very good pro, but third belay in wich you need cams. very beautiful climb not easy for the grade.
luca
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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Sir Run-it-out
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Many new (old bolts replaced) and extra bolts on this climb, especially the 1st pitch. Two new (extra) bolts in the slab section at the bottom, and there's now a bolt by the piton at the first belay (as shown in the Reid guide). Bolts and rings on the second belay. Can run first two pitches together with a 60m rope. New bolt off left and up a few feet of second belay. Rap rings on 4th belay. Can rap down with two double rope raps from fourth belay.
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Scott
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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I found it is very easy to miss the second belay and climb all the way to the 3rd belay ledge. The second belay ledge is not very apparent from the ground or while climbing. Combining the two pitches was not a problem though.
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Cryin' Time Again is route A.Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
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