Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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climbed this on Saturday 9/24. The first bolt off the ledge is a 1/4 bolt with a leeper(?) hangar. it's a fun climb and gave me a good idea on what to expect in Tuolumne Meadows.
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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the tip to save time and energy by locating the correct pullout on the road is no longer valid due to accumulated rock fall in 2011. Sorry
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Toreador
Trad climber
York, UK
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After an initial abortive attempt to locate the crag (we'd parked far to far up the road), we ended up parking at the Pywiack Dome pull-off. Just cross the road, ascend for 3 or 4 minutes, and follow the ledge system described in the book.
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Some tips to save time and energy on the approach: The turnout has room for only one or two cars. Across the road from the turnout is a steep dirt and rock cliff about twenty feet high. At the top of this road cliff are a separated pair of young aspen/poplar like trees also about twenty feet apart. Below these, to your right you will see a nice rock ramp leading to the top of this road cliff. If you don't see this rock ramp, you are at the wrong turnout. Upon ascending this road cliff, head west following the trail of trampled brush. Your goal is to follow this to the far west end of a ramp that will then take you up and east. Almost at the end of the trail through the brush, you step up on a large boulder. Here you can continue west to the very base of the ramp, OR you can climb up the shortcut about eight feet to get up on the ramp. Follow the ramp up, heading east. You will arrive just east of these routes. If you are not yet acclimated, maybe minimize your rack/pack to reduce the weight you are carrying up this approach.
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harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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I'm a relatively new leader, and this was my first experience with runout Tuolumne slab. Climb was not physically difficult, the 5.6 section at the bottom had 2 decents bolts. Placed a small cam in the crack at the base of the first ledge. On the section after the first ledge one of the bolts was rusty/manky looking (I think it was the 3rd from the ground). The angle lessens as you go higher and the climb gets easier, but there was a long runout before the second ledge (I'd say 40-50 feet). Got another cam in at the second ledge. Then another 40 or so feet of 5.0 to the chains. Could spin the hangers on the anchor bolts, but the bolts themselves seemed solid. Nice view of Tenaya lake from the top. Fun climb, more mentally than physically challenging for me. Guess runouts on easy slab are just par for the course in Tuolumne, but it definitely made things a little spicy for me! Just don't think about that potential 80 foot cheese grater fall ...
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