skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Did this yesterday, 2-8-2015, temp in vegas was in the upper 70s, winds were mellow. Too hot to climb in the sun, perfect in the shade. I wore a heavy fleece jacket on the climb and was sweating by the time I would hit a belay.
Pitch 1: 40ft 5.7, easy climbing due to lots of face holds outside of the 4" crack, used 2 BD #4 cams
Pitch 2: 120' (according to the middle mark on my 70m rope) 5.10b, used 2 #2, 2 #3 and 2 #4 cams along with a couple in the smaller sizes. Little bit run out, but the crack is so bomber and the face holds are some plentiful that it wasn't a big deal.
Pitch 3: perfect hands and faceholds for 120 feet. My partner stayed in the right crack, which ends in a bit of chimney climbing, maybe a 5" cam would protect it, but I think you may want to stay left, either way it is 5.8 climbing.
Pitch 4: 5.10 Thank god for the beautiful new bolt just above the roof. The loose dagger shifts a few, unnerving, inches when you lean against it, but seems like it's somewhat solid. Jamming up the stack of rocks in the crack was even more unnerving, but the crack above is SWEET!!!
Pitch 5/6, wandering up to the top, ended up doing a 5.9 move to gain the top. Definitely not 4th class like the Jerry Handren guide claims.
We traversed up and left to gain the hikers trail back, which isn't horrible, and probably more fun than dealing with the inevitable rope snags from rappelling.
Overall this is an amazing route, and perfect for climbing with someone that isn't comfortable with leading anything harder than 5.9 due to the 2nd & 4th pitches being the cruxes, which are both super easy to protect.
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Catrina Behling
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Love Love Love this route. Pulling the rope can be pretty tricky off the 3rd pitch. There is a very helpful bolt right next to the rope snagging horn, so u can lower off, n clean ur gear. We chose to leave a beaner rather than downlead... Must do 4th pitch.
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Harry Mammil
Trad climber
Llanrwst
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If you have fat fingers like mine and a couple have flailed on the thin crack for an hour or so beforehand making it really greasy try this alternative:
From the jug at the base of the crack rock up to a finger edge just right of the crack, match and reach left to the good hold at the top. You still have one hard move but you aren't jiggered. Not a long reach either!
Mike Hammill
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franknfrank
Trad climber
US-east haven-ct
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just did the route and rapped from topof pitch 4 --everything seemed ok---if your on this route you gotta do p4 i think its super classic and would be a shame to miss it...
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Excellent route. Linked pitches 1 (40 feet) & 2 together easily with 70m cord. Found the crux below the roof to be the finger crack, not the actual roof itself if the crux is truly 10c it's so short it doesn't make that much of an impact.
This route is definitely worth the trip. Add the side car 10a 16 bolt sport route afterwards as a fun to-do. (this can be rapped or set up a top rope with one 70m rope.
Enjoy....we did!
Susan
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Thanks a bunch Greg!!!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Replaced the bolted anchors on pitch 3 & 4 and the protection bolt next to the death flake on pitch 4. Two of the 3 bolts at the pitch 3 anchor had pulled out (a 1/4" and a 3/8" nail-in). The protection bolt and the pitch 3 anchor are 1/2" bolts.
Pitch 4 is great, but don't underestimate that flake - it both flexes and rotates, and if it broke it would be disasterous for everyone (including anyone near the base). Should have been trundled on the FA...but at least now you can clip the pro bolt and trust it (used to be a 1/4" Star-Dryvin). Better to aid on that bolt than stand on the flake.
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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One of the best in Red Rock, to be sure.
Definitely go to the top on it, or at least to the top of 4. The 'Fang' is not nearly as spooky as it looks and its only one move thats well protected by a cam (with an old bolt nearby). Above, the pitch opens into Indian Creek style climbing with a Red Rock flair up top.
The ST Rack is right on the money if you're climbing at your limit, although looking back, I think i'd only take two 3" cams instead of 3.
PS- The bolts, while good enough for rappelling, are starting to look a little....iffy. Greg, if you see this before I talk to you, put the top of 3 and the top of 4 on your 'to replace list', they need some love.
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TheHip
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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THe 2nd and 3rd pitches are awesome. After reading the beta on this site I realize that we should have continued but man, the start of the 4th pitch looked sketch!
The start of the 2nd pitch affords great photo ops (Vegas in the background)
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Worth going to the top on.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Great Route worth topping out on. The 4th pitch had a shifty and scary block that most people will end up standing on, it moves side to side and not out yet with out it the climbing will likely become harder. All the anchors seemed to look good to me with perhaps some minor hangar shifting. Its mostly 5.7-9 hand jamming. Simply outstanding. Near by is Wholesomefullbeck and Our Father which are amazing as well.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Didn't think the bolts at the top of #3 were horrible, but they were looking aged and the tat is an eyesore. Rap to the top of San Filipe to avoid people below you and the risk of the rope jamming in the killer crack.
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Patrick
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I've done the route a couple of times since OCT of 2001. Once I topped out, and then once rapped off 4th pitch bolts. I would be way more concerned about the bolts at the top of the 3rd pitch than those at the top of the 4th. The bolts looked new to me the first time and still seemed solid last year.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Just got an email from Jed & Patrick (the climbing rangers), they said the anchor on top of the 4th pitch needs replacement, and one of the bolts on the top of the 3rd is also a bit loose.
We're not allowed to replace bolts at all at the moment, a full bolt ban including hand drill replacement of bolts is in place until they figure out how to manage the new Wilderness areas.
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XavLV
Trad climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
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The bolts at the top of the fourth pitch aren'y quarter inchers but they're not new either. I'm really not qualified to talk about their condition other than to say I had no problem belaying or rapping off of them. There were no chains, only slings from the hangers.
Greg, thanks for all of your work at Red Rock. It's very appreciated...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Killer, I was wondering whether there might be an anchor up there. That pitch looks so killer, but I've always been there at the end of the day without enough time to make it to the very top.
Xav, how are the bolts, webbing, whatever? Old or new, chains, etc?
Thanks - Greg
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xav
Novice climber
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some comments on the SuperTopo: There ARE bolts on top of pitch 4 and this 5.10 pitch is VERY worthwhile. Fun, with changing corner systems on beautiful and safe rock. The next two pitches of easy 5th and 4th class suck, but the 4th pitch deserves more mention. The swain guide says you can't rapp off pitch 4 and it's just not true.
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Located in Black Velvet Canyon, Whiskey Peak Wall is packed full of amazing climbs.Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
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