Horndogger Select to Sundog, Solar Slab Wall 5.10a

  
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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  • 5
  (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  (3.0)
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 33%  (1)
2 star: 33%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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hamid

Trad climber
Berkeley, California
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    Dec 27, 2003 - 01:41am
Did the last 4 pitches of the climb last week. It's a good climb but I liked Sun Flower and Solar Slab better. The 5.9 roof is well protected and the slab above it felt more like 5.8 to me than 10a. You don't need any offwidth technique to pull the last pitch.
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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    Apr 19, 2004 - 08:11pm
This route is amazing! However, Sundog is in no way 5.10a. You can do this in 5 pitches, combine the first two, then 3 to the top. The moves off belay on the crux pitch are solid 5.9, then you pull onto a 5.8(+) slab to belay. The topout, while committing, is probably 5.8+/5.9- with so-so pro. A big bro is nice here if you arent comfortable on the wide stuff.
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
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    Oct 13, 2004 - 03:52am
didn't like this one so much
Doug Hemken

climber
Madison, WI
Dec 9, 2004 - 03:35pm
 
The lower level of this wall is kind of trashy - lots of loose and crumbly ledges. No obvious death holds, but you will want to climb gingerly. I had trouble deciding where to go right at the end of pitch one (*not* to the lowest hueco), and where to go left at the end of pitch two (looks like several options would work). The moves are nice, but its like climbing on egg shells.

The upper route (Sundog) is really fun. Much better rock, varied, easy to read the rock. The crux is short, well-bolted, and probably not really 5.10. Do a couple of easy routes at the Gallery before you do this route, and you'll think this one is pretty straightforward.
Solar Slab Wall - Horndogger Select to Sundog 5.10a - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Eric Ponslet and Lucie Parietti
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.