One-Armed Bandit, Rose Tower 5.7 R

  
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (2.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
  (1.5)
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Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 50%  (1)
1 star: 50%  (1)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Doug Hemken

climber
Madison, WI
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    Mar 31, 2005 - 02:05pm
A two star route composed of many 3 star sections - lots of nice climbing but a little broken up by ledges for modern tastes.

No need for hip belays, anywhere. Lots of alternative belay stances - you could make this a 9 or 10 pitch route if you really wanted to work at it!

Finding the route: continuing uphill from Olive Oil, it is a bit of a struggle through boulders and shrubbery. It's a bit further than the topo might lead you to believe. Go to the *second* left facing dihedral/crack beyond the "clean brown corner" - the first crack in good clean rock.

Pitch one can be extended to the top of the small pillar.

Pitch two can then go to the base of the chimney. You can avoid the 5.7 sandy face by doing moves up the solid varnish to the right, just don't go over to the death block in the dihedral. Decent gear for a belay anchor is inside the chimney and to the right.

On pitch three, the chimney is runout but easy, the 5.7 jugs are *not* runout but take small gear, and the crack just above takes fist sized gear or maybe even bigger (the climbing, however, is easier face and stemming).

The crumbly parts are the beginning of the topo's pitch 3 and the middle of topo pitch 5. Crumbly edges and knobs, but no death blocks.

Fun, sunny, and no one in sight!
Ben Townsend

climber
Maine
Nov 8, 2013 - 03:44pm
 
Fun climb, a bit adventurous but well-protected where it matters. Solid belay anchors are easy to arrange. Short, well-protected 5.7 cruxes right at the start of the first pitch, and near the end of the last pitch; otherwise, cruiser terrain with sufficient, though not abundant, gear. We had a #4 and #5 and used them a couple times each -- nice, but optional. Some fragile rock, but nothing too scary or loose.
Rose Tower - One-Armed Bandit 5.7 R - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.