Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
|
 |
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
|
Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
|
|
5.10d pitch 8, steep stemming
pitch 9 is a bolted crack / ramp
pitch 4 is 10a
combine pitch 1 & 2 with 60m rope
raps:
9 to 8
8 to 5
5 to 3
3 to 2
2 to ground
9 hours car to car
|
Colt45
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
The walkdown descent is pretty reasonable, and beautiful--I think it would be much better than rapping (although it may take longer). To do this just follow the ridge line and go around an obvious red tower. Follow cairns and the ridgeline, then cruise down the drainage. There is a whole system of hidden canyons BEHIND Oak Creek Canyon that you get to see during this descent!
|
George Bell
Trad climber
Colorado
|
|
Kudos to the ASCA for rebolting this route! Great job guys!
I found pitch 9 to be bizarre and freaky. The first (brand new!) bolt wiggles visibly and does not instill confidence. I think this reflects on the crumbly nature of the rock. This pitch is a lot different in character from the lower pitches. It looks easy, but those nice edges are gone!
|
Doug Hemken
climber
Madison, WI
|
|
We did this through pitch 8 on 15 November. Saw what we thought was a peregrine at the cave atop pitch 3. It landed in the cave and screeched at me just as I was getting ready to second p4!
see http://www.climbingredrocks.com/community/album/283.html
The aid pitch worked pretty easily with a bunch of shoulder length slings, but an etrier per climber would certainly speed things up.
|
vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
|
|
fairly good up to the pitch before the bolt ladder, then the rock quality degraded very quickly. the rock above the bolt ladder is definitely not so good...and the belay location makes it fairly spooky- i would say a helmet is mandatory on this route due to possible rockfall on several pitches.
for reference:
if you're 5'10" or taller, you dont really need any slings for your feet on the bolt ladder, just take and reach- thank goodness george is so short!
the left-hand bolt at the base of the first .10c pitch (pitch 3 per supertopo) unscrews itself regularly due to the spacing of the bolts- finger tighten it when you get there.
a single 70m line will get you off this route easily (the penultimate rap is somewhat close, but still works fine).
imho- the best way to do this route would be to get up early and fire the first 4, then come down and fire levitation or another route on the wall.
|
Paul B
Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
|
|
I managed to get lost on the easy approach and did the 4th class version instead. In case it's useful for anybody I've added a TR here:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Getting-to-Eagle-Wall-Red-Rocks/t13231n.html
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
|
The hike down is beautiful.
|
|
With new bolts, Eagle Dance is destined to become a classic.Photo: Greg Barnes
|
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
| | | | | | | | |
