Yellow Brick Road, Black Velvet Canyon 5.10b

  
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

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4 star: 67%  (2)
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2 star: 33%  (1)
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Doug from Hobart

Trad climber
Tasmania
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    Jan 26, 2015 - 08:39pm
Did this with my wife a few years back as our first route in Black Velvet Canyon. I'd been wanting to do PoD for years after reading an article in an old Climbing mag. She thought that PoD might be a bit too sustained for our first outing on this sort of route so we compromised with YBR. Loved it. Although the trad is limited to the first two pitches, the finger crack on the second pitch is a ripper and the main reason we opted for YBR over DoWT. Highly recommended if you want to do a long bolted route at about this grade with a bit of trad to start you off. Sure hope to get back to Black Velvet Canyon someday ...
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Approximate line of YBR.
Approximate line of YBR.
Credit: Doug from Hobart
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A fun day out of slightly off-vertical climbing
A fun day out of slightly off-vertical climbing
Credit: Doug from Hobart
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Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
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    Apr 3, 2003 - 06:15pm
Climbed on 3.28.03 - Great fun. Canyon is still butt cold right now so bring warm clothes! Started up around 1pm with a party just starting up Prince o' D. P2 will wake you up if you didn't warm up (again - it was COLD) because of its slant and slaby feel. Also, topo had P2 @ 120' - I'd say more like 150'. Head straight up and enjoy! If you've climbed Amazing Face @ Mt Diablo, the climbing is sorta like that except with MUCH BETTER Rock. The holds made me grin the whole way up.

Use double ropes - much less of a hassle than trailing a second line. The party on POD did this and the rope was at the mercy of the wind - Felt bad for the second hauling that beast.

We rapped down POD with 2 50m doubles - Not sure about rapping off P2 of Yellow Brick anchors since it slants so much so heads up if you try it!

Will be back again to finsih off POD and the rest in BV Canyon
clustiere

Big Wall climber
Alamo City
Oct 7, 2003 - 11:08pm
 
I was wondering if anybody had linked The gobbler with Yellow Brick Road via the third pitch traverse of Dream of wild turkeys.
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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    Sep 4, 2006 - 11:33pm
eh, DoWT is better- more gear to place. YBR is a clip up for the most part- you only use gear for the first 50' of it.

this is mostly crimpy sport climbing a la PoD- complete with hanging belays- so, if you like that sort of thing...
Black Velvet Canyon - Yellow Brick Road 5.10b - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Yellow Brick Road is a two-pitch variation to Dream of Wild Turkeys.
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.