Sour Mash, Black Velvet Canyon 5.10a

  
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  (4.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (2)
4 star: 50%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
drdave

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 18, 2008 - 10:58am
 
On 4/13/08 we rapped off two bomber bolts at the RAP station. They looked new, but not THAT new. Perhaps the previous posters missed finding them?
crustie

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 2, 2008 - 01:01pm
 
I just did the route on 3/38. I agree w/ everyone, it's great. But I think the rap from the final rap station is more than 30 feet, more like 80. And there were not nuts there as back up (except the ones I left myself) - just 2 slings around a dead stump that moves. Definitely not replaced, and ASCA can't replace them - BLM orders (I asked ASCA this week). Can we start a petition to the BLM?
Jaroslaw Tuszynski

Trad climber
Fairfax, Va
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    Nov 28, 2006 - 12:51pm
Great route: fun climbing and good protection (thanks to good crack and retrobolting).

One have to pay attention while repelling: from top of pitch 5 the ropes look like will reached the Fiddler's anchor on the lip of the roof, so it is easy to pass the correct rap station above it. Luckily one can stop on Sour-Mash's belay 4 and do slightly diagonal repel to Fidler's roof belay station. Rapping from top of pitches 1, 2 or 3 might be hard, so it is probably easier to go to top of pitch 4 if you have to get off early.

Finally the "RAP station" one has to use in the middle of pitch one if you rap from Fidler (unless you have very long ropes) is a dead stump, a nut and some bleached webbing. The repel is only 20-30 ft but quite scary.
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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    May 20, 2006 - 11:13pm
great route...one of the better ones on the wall. ignore the ST rack recommendation for this one- its beyond overkill. a single set of nuts and cams will be fine. the only spot on the climb for a #3 camalot is on the first pitch, and there are other options...a #2 is sufficient.
clustiere

Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2004 - 02:10pm
 
If you like this route you should do all the routes to the left. Also Chicken Lips is increadible.
madmax

climber
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    Mar 19, 2004 - 03:26pm
A great climb without a lot of traffic. Swain's guide mentioned setting up belay with large Friends. I found a great belay stance, but it didn't take large Friends. I used a #1 Cam, a green alien, and something else small. No large Friends. Just lugged them the whole time. A little soft for the grade. More like 5.9.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
dmitry

Trad climber
the evil empire
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    Apr 19, 2003 - 09:31am
An excellent uncrowded route.
The last two pitches are sure to keep you fully engaged!
Do not bother bringing anything larger than 3": you won't need it.
JG

Trad climber
the evil empire
Apr 5, 2003 - 11:51pm
 
Excellent! Much better than prince of darkness or dream of wild turkeys. The climbing is varied, interesting, and well protected - and the exposure is good.
Black Velvet Canyon - Sour Mash 5.10a - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Sour Mash is an overlooked awesome varied climb.
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.