Tombstone Terror, Lover's Leap, Main Wall 5.10c

  
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 5
  (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
  (4.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 33%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
fletch lives

Social climber
south lake tahoe
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    Oct 20, 2008 - 11:14pm
legendary, but kind of soft. Felt like 5.9d
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jan 26, 2008 - 08:51pm
 
if any of you have ever heard the rumor of someone running into a rattle snake just above the crux on this route......no rumor that was me in 1976. Scared the sh#t out of me. I felt sorry for my follower (cody paulson) who had to clean the damm thing knowing full well what I had just encountered!
Bilbo

Trad climber
Truckee
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    Jun 13, 2005 - 12:31pm
The start moves are extremely hard for the grade and the fall is bad. We were able to place micro-nuts 8' off the ground to lessen the blow in case of fall.
We did not find any top anchors and climbed out right under the roof to a 2-bolt rap/belay station. Leaving the second a fairly intense traverse.
Sweet lie-back/stem for 20-25' the rest is ok.
A bolt at the start would make this climb more appealing, since 20' of good climbing is hardly worth a broken ankle.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Truckee
Jun 7, 2004 - 07:20pm
 
You can cut out just after the crux onto some bolts to the left (w/ chains) just after the crux. Makes the climb shorter (50 feet), but easy for laps. This way you can TR w/ 50m rope.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
Caddy

Trad climber
Folsom, CA
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    Jun 30, 2003 - 02:55pm
Climbed w/ JR in June 2003. This is still a hard route after having done it once a few years before. Remember to Lieback and stem and not to stall out through the crux.

Curt "Cadillac" Taras
Chalky Fingers

climber
Jun 27, 2003 - 03:09pm
 
Hey astrofish,
Ever think the route might top-out?
Astrofish

Trad climber
Jun 25, 2003 - 12:31pm
 
I got to the top of this route and the only anchors I found were some good rap rings about 15ft to the west above a sport climb. A bit offline to set up the TR but they worked. The supertopo version I have shows the anchors slightly to the left of the route - topo error?, chopping?, user error?

Either way an awesome route. The bottom is terrifying until you learn to finesse it. It's not that high but it just feels there's no way you're gonna land on your feet.
Lover's Leap, Main Wall - Tombstone Terror 5.10c - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from the Hogsback.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.