Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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pretty simple route... nothing really that outstanding about it, but still a fun route.
i ended up using my #6 on that 5.6 mantle, and then .75 on that last mantle move...
[Click to View Linked Image]
here's just after that 5.6 mantle (just before the last 5.7 mantle) i used the #6 cam for this one, very usefull
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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It appears to me that the Falcon guide (Carville) calls this route Pip's Pillar (5.8), and shows Harvey's Wallbanger Center being the route just to the left. It seems more likely to me that Supertopo is right (and it didn't feel 5.8, except maybe for the final optional move at the top, where you could just walk right and belay instead). Anyone certain which route is which?
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highminded
Mountain climber
Forks, Washington
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Chris's topo for this says it is a good follow-up climb for Knapsack Crack. It also says that it is easier than Deception. I would, respectfully, have to disagree. If your a beginning leader, start with Knapsack, then move on to Deception (not "Deception Direct," just "Deception"). Only when your confident on the 2nd pitch of Deception, try HW-banger Center.
You don't see a lot of people on this climb. That's a hint.
Some things to know: The cracks are filled with a lot of dirt, sand, bushes and gradoo. The belay ledge is descent and comfy with nice pro options in the crack above. Throughout the climb, the feet aren't great (sometimes you've gotta really look hard to find them) and there are a lot of akward moves, especially at the top. You'll thank yourself for having lots of cams.
Though HW-banger Right is rated more difficult than HW-banger Center, it's a nicer climb.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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The routefinding on this route is easier than deception, although with deception, the climbing is pretty easy whether you find the traverse right, or continue straight up. These climbs are all pretty easy, and I'd suggest just picking something uncrowded.
The first time I climbed this, neither of the seconds were comfortable hand jamming, and, since they didn't really "get" crack climbing, they had a tougher time than necessary.
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harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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Climbed this yesterday, led the second pitch, my third lead. Felt more challenging than Deception to me. I found the 5.6 mantel move (not the 5.7 one at the top, but the one before it) to be more intimidating than the face traverse at the top of pitch 2 of Deception. I avoided the top mantel by traversing right (not quite ready to lead through such an awkward place). I thought overall it was a very fun climb, with a variety of moves (jams, stems, mantles) and good gear placements.
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Archie Richardson
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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The topo indicates a combined length of 170 ft for the two pitches (50 + 120), but when I tried to combine pitches with a 60 m rope I came up about 30 ft short. Need 2 pitches (or about 30 ft of simulclimbing). We discovered the 5.7 mantel variation requires close coordination if simulclimbing. Enjoy.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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The higher you climb, the better quality the rock seems to get. Last time I did this, there was a a good sized boulder on the belay ledge. It could easily kill someone. Please be careful. A good route for when "Harvey Wallbanger, Right" has a line.
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ryanentwistle
Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
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You cannot make it all the way from the bottom tree to the top tree in a single pitch with a 60m rope; as someone else said, you come up about 30ft short.
If you have a 60m and want to do it in one roped pitch, I suggest climbing up another maybe 40ft from the bottom tree on some rock ranging from high 4th to very easy 5th to reach a shelf where you can set a base anchor using three pieces of medium-sized gear (1.5-2.25 if I remember correctly) and start belaying there. Saves you having to switch belay in the middle of the climb. Just make sure you have 2ft or even 4ft slings on some of the gear placements to avoid rope-drag and keep the rope-line shorter.
Next time I bring people there I'll see if a 70m rope will make it tree to tree since it seems like more and more people are buying 70m ropes.
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YVClimber
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Two people have already mentioned that you come about 30 feet short when trying to climb the route in one long pitch. I just figured I'd throw in a little more specifics on the topic. The topo for this route states that the first pitch is 50 feet long. I climbed this route today and found this to be false. The first pitch is actually around 100 feet long. (I just passed the middle marker on my 60m rope).
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The route as seen from Highway 50.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
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