Deception Direct, Lover's Leap, Hogsback 5.9

  
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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  (3.0)
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5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (1)
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Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
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    Jun 18, 2006 - 03:21pm
Found the 5.9R rating to be rather overstated both times I did this route. If you can do haystack, this move is no big deal. Calling it 5.9 takes away from real 5.9's like the line and travelers.

What's up with the ASCA message? There were no bolts on this climb when I did it?!

Once the liebacking dihedral starts petering out to a thin seam you get a good #1 camalot about 10' below the crux. With light gardening I got two good small nuts in before getting to the crux. One was a small HB offset (orange?), and a totally slotted #5 BD stopper. I pulled the crux with gear about at my ankle. The move is a rockover onto a good crystal. Freaky, but only 5.8, not R. Freaky and exposed, not but R, and not 5.9.

There is still about 20' more with some real 5.7 insecure moves into the now left facing dihedral. You get small small aliens in however (black-blue or so). At the top of that is a nice ledge for sitting on while watching your partner drives the worm. The last pitch is 4th class or so.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Lover's Leap, Hogsback - Deception Direct 5.9 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from Highway 50.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.