Preperation H, Lover's Leap, East Wall 5.8

  
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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3 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (1)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 33%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Highlife

Trad climber
California
Jun 7, 2010 - 12:15pm
 
To Zeta: We're you just up there this last weekend? What are the snow runnif/Water conditions like in general?
zeta

Trad climber
Portland, OR
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    Jun 7, 2010 - 02:31am
hmm...did this and didn't like it as much as I thought I would. It's definitely harder than Haystack, some parts seemed manky, gear placements weren't always obvious, but when things felt tricky, gear was there. I struggled in some sections, and Haystack felt like a piece of cake afterward.
Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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    Nov 6, 2009 - 03:05pm
Oh yeah, definitely the recommended start to Haystack. I'd suggest that the leader be comfortable at this grade. The second pitch of Haystack will feel soft after this one.

I had to solo up about 12 or 15 easy feet to my first small gear placement and gear higher on the climb didn't always come right when I wanted it. After the start, it was sustained 5.7 and 5.8 moves up to the reachy crux bulge, which I would rate 5.8+, but maybe I was just having a bad day. Anyways, that bomber jug was just out of reach right when the dikes and finger pockets disappeared. Unless your super tall, think liebacking. The hand crack traverse at the end is a very fun way to end the pitch, but I don't think its 5.6, felt more like 5.5 or maybe even 5.4.

I've been wanting to do this pitch all year. Glad I finally jumped on it.
Lover's Leap, East Wall - Preperation H 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Preperation H
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.